DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.

Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975

Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:

• Eastern
• South-Eastern
• Northern
• South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
• via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

1. Class of ascent: technically complex
2. Region of ascent ridge: Western Caucasus, Karvkeysky spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Kara-Kaya node between South-Karvkeysky and Mvruhsky passes.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Glavnaya Karakaya, 3890 m. Rocky route along the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: — 3А
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference 570 m. Average steepness 33°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: For belaying for creating artificial support points | rock | 9 | 2 (organization of descents) |

Report on the Ascent in the Area

of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:

• SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
• KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
• KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
• PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
• MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
• AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

104

Central Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society

"Krasnaya Zvezda" Alpine Camp

Report

on the first ascent of the Northwest wall of Kara-Kaya Main peak (approximately category 6B) Team members:

• USSR Master of Sports Andreev R.N. - team leader
• Assorov A.V. - participant
• Shkrabkin A.S. - participant

Fig. 1

1. Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1)

The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack

Ascent Record

1. Ascent level — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya, 3500 m, via the northwest ridge
4. Category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference 800 m, average slope 40–45 degrees
6. Total climbing hours — 16–18
7. Overnight stay — on Hokkel Glacier
8. Group composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Daut valley, classification table number 2.2
2. Peak Kyshkadzher 3837 m (by GPS), via the 3rd ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 4A (presumably), first ascent
4. Route character — rocky
5. Height difference of the route — 260 m Route length — 760 m. Average steepness of the route — 28°
6. Total equipment used: Rock pitons — 7, Nuts — 37
7. Left on the route during descent — 1 bolt piton

Fig. 3

1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)

From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and