Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR alpine climbing championship in 1973 I category ascent — technically difficult 2. Region of ascent — Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route — Main Dombay-Ulgen 4040 m, South wall 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference 1040 m

• average steepness 63° Length of difficult sections 210 m

5. Pitons hammered in: rock 121 ice — screw 1

Fig. 43 Fig. 44

3. Ascent to the peak Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen via the northwestern ridge (Sasorov's route) — cat. 4A (fig. 43 and 44, on the right)

From the Ptysh bivouac, ascend to the right-bank moraine of the northern Ptysh glacier, then 400–500 m to the left and up a snowy couloir to the base of the rocks of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From Dombay plain 6–7 hours. From the bivouac, first on snow, then up a couloir to the right, exit to the ridge and approach the first wall. Bypass the wall on the right through an internal corner (belay!) and exit to the ridge through brown rocks. Along the ridge 130–150 m and ascent to the second wall.

Description of the first ascent of the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif from the Western peak to the saddle with ascent to the Western peak via the NW wall

5B category of complexity July 12–17, 1962 The Dombay region, where the Dombay-Ulgen massif is located, lies in the border zone between the Western and Central Caucasus, so it combines the nature of:

• the humid warm Western Caucasus;
• the more continental Central Caucasus. The territory of the region is part of the Teberda State Reserve. The climate of the Dombay region depends on the impact of several factors, the most important of which are:
• year-round influence of the western air transfer (warm and humid air masses);

LVOV REGIONAL COUNCIL OF SDSO "BUREVESTNIK" REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF WESTERN DOMBAY-ULGEN (4038 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL (CAUCASUS. Area from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass)

Team of the Lvov Regional Council of SDSO "Burevestnik"

SENCHINA S.V. — captain, CMS BOLIZHEVSKY V.K. — coach, MS NIKOLAYCHUK O.L. — CMS UFIMTSEV V.D. — CMS ONYSKO O.S. — 1st sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

The first championship of the alpinism club "Vertikal", rock climbing category.

Report

On ascending v. DOMBAI ZAPADNY (4036 m) via the left part of the western wall. Team from Togliatti branch of the "Vertikal" club. First ascent. Team captain: Team coach: 1989 Route scheme in UIAA symbols. Scale 1:2000

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.) The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of: V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS TABLE OF THE SECTION

Date	Designation	Average steepness	Length	Relief character
28 August 1980	0–1	35	200	Sheep's backs
Entered the route at 7:00	1–2	45	300	Ridge
	2–3	80	40	Internal corner
	3–4	70	240	Counterfort
Set up for the night at 18:00	4–5	45	80	Ridge, shelves
29 August 1980	5–6	90	40	Wall
Started the route at 8:00	6–7	50	30	Narrow ridge

Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Area — Main Caucasian Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Peak — Dombay (3), 4039 m, via Western counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1470 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 315 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock (including chocks) — for belay — 94
7. Climbing hours — 27

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table: 2. Caucasus 2.2. From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass (Dombay region)
2. Peak name: Dombay (West) 4036 m Route name: via Western ridge Complexity category: 5B
3. Route type: rock.
4. Height difference of the route: 1300 m