Fig. 43

Fig. 44

3. Ascent to the peak Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen via the northwestern ridge (Sasorov's route) — cat. 4A (fig. 43 and 44, on the right)

From the Ptysh bivouac, ascend to the right-bank moraine of the northern Ptysh glacier, then 400–500 m to the left and up a snowy couloir to the base of the rocks of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From Dombay plain 6–7 hours.

From the bivouac, first on snow, then up a couloir to the right, exit to the ridge and approach the first wall.

Bypass the wall on the right through an internal corner (belay!) and exit to the ridge through brown rocks.

Along the ridge 130–150 m and ascent to the second wall.

Up the wall (hook belay!) initially to the left, then to the right — up.

After the wall, traverse 20 m to the left to a chimney and down it to a ledge.

Along the ledge 6–7 m to the left (belay!) and ascent up a couloir to the third wall.

Up the wall:

• straight up (pitons!),
• or straight up to the second third and bypass the upper part of the wall to the right.

After exiting above the third wall, ascend to the left and exit to the ridge on slabby rocks (belay!).

Further along the ridge (or to the left of it) on easy rocks to a cirque. From the cirque, on easy rocks, it's possible to exit to the peak of the triangle and then to the left along the ridge to the "finger" or cross the cirque to the left — up under the peak of the triangle and exit to the left of it onto the ridge before the "finger". Bypass the "finger" on the left, exit to an inclined ledge under the TsDSA peak, along the ledge to the ridge of the peak and on easy rocks to its summit. From the TsDSA peak, further along the ridge. The gendarmes on the ridge are mostly bypassed on the left.

After the last gray gendarme:

• exit to a wide stepped couloir;
• up the couloir (rockfall hazard, belay!) exit to the western ridge and along it to the western summit.

From the bivouac 11–12 hours.

Descent along the ascent route takes 9–10 hours. It's also possible to descend through the main summit via the route of category 3B complexity (see description of the ascent to the main Dombay-Ulgen from the Dombay saddle).

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 4–6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — at the base of the rocks of the northwestern ridge.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — no later than 5:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×40 m; b) expendable cord — 10 m; c) rock pitons — 15–17; d) rock hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 12.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the triangle; 2nd — behind the TsDSA peak; 3rd — on the Western summit.