Northwestern Caucasus

Mountain range16,851.32 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 6A route on the southern bastion of Domбай-Ulgen West peak in 2000.

Passport

  1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
  2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
  3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character: rock.
  5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).
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First ascent via the southern wall of Dombay Western peak, 6A category of difficulty, climbing report, route description and photos.

Route Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Dombay, section number according to KMGV 2.2.
  2. Dombay Western 4036 m via the counterfort of the South wall.
  3. 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. The route is rock.
  5. The height difference of the route is 1036 m (by altimeter). Route length 1715 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty 255 m. Length of sections with VI category of difficulty 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 80°, total route 55°.
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Ascent to the summit of **Domбай-Ульген** via the Western bastion of the southern wall, category 6A complexity. Route description, technical information and trip details.

Ascent Passport

  1. Russia, Caucasus.
  2. Rock class.
  3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
  4. Peak Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m), via the bastion of the southern wall.
  5. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
  6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length – 1450 m; length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty – 360 m; average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge (excluding talus) – 72° (3070–3950); start of the route (“claw”) — summit – 55° (3000–4036).
  7. Pitons hammered (including in the denominator for IT): rock 70/27, ice 0/0, bolt 0/0, anchor 155/51
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern counterfort, technical details, and tactical plan of the 1975 ascent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
  3. Ascent route: Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen (4037 m) (5B category of difficulty) from the south via the green counterfort.
  4. Ascent description: height difference 950 (to the ridge) + 100 = 1050 m. Average steepness 60°. Length of the complex section 350 m.
  5. Number of pitons driven:
    • rock 102
    • ice —
    • bolt —
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Description of the ascent route to the summit Dombay (Western) 4036 m via the Western Edge, complexity category 5E, climbed by a team led by Andrey Shvyrev in 2001.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table: 2. Caucasus 2.2. From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass (Dombay region)
  2. Peak name: Dombay (West) 4036 m Route name: via Western ridge Complexity category: 5B
  3. Route type: rock.
  4. Height difference of the route: 1300 m
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Ascent to the summit of **Domбай** via the Western Counterfort, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — rock climbing
  2. Area — Main Caucasian Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
  3. Peak — Dombay (3), 4039 m, via Western counterfort.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1470 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 315 m, average steepness 55°
  6. Pitons driven: rock (including chocks) — for belay — 94
  7. Climbing hours — 27
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Description of the route along the western counterfort of the Western Dombay-Ulgen mountain, category of difficulty 5B, with a detailed analysis of the ascent stages and terrain characteristics.

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS TABLE OF THE SECTION

DateDesignationAverage steepnessLengthRelief character
28 August 19800–135200Sheep's backs
Entered the route at 7:001–245300Ridge
2–38040Internal corner
3–470240Counterfort
Set up for the night at 18:004–54580Ridge, shelves
29 August 19805–69040Wall
Started the route at 8:006–75030Narrow ridge
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Description of the first ascent to the summit of **Domбай-Ulgen** via the Western Edge, category 5B, completed in August 1973.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.) The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of: V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West

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Report on the first ascent of the western wall of the summit Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m) by the team of the Togliatti branch of the club "Vertikal" in 2007.

The first championship of the alpinism club "Vertikal", rock climbing category.

Report

On ascending v. DOMBAI ZAPADNY (4036 m) via the left part of the western wall. Team from Togliatti branch of the "Vertikal" club. First ascent. Team captain: Team coach: 1989 Route scheme in UIAA symbols. Scale 1:2000

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Description of a new 6B category route to the summit of **Domбай-Ullery (Dombay-Western)** via the North-West face, climbed by a group of Irkutsk climbers in February 2005.

Ascent Passport

  1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
  2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
  3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
  6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.
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