South Eastern Caucasus

Mountain range17,615.76 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the route to the 4th tower of Shalbuzdag Mt. (4020 m) via D-W buttress, category 4, in Dagestan, climbed by a group of alpinists in 1989.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
  4. Estimated category complexity — 3A
  5. Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
  6. Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
  7. Number of climbing hours — 4
  8. Number of nights — No overnight stay
  9. Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
  10. Team coach —
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### Ascent Route to the 3rd Tower of Shalbuzdag East, Category 2B #### Route Overview and Recommendations for Climbers A detailed description of the ascent route to the 3rd tower of Shalbuzdag East, categorized as 2B in complexity. The route characteristics and recommendations are provided for experienced alpinists looking to tackle this challenging climb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Eastern Shambuzdag, 3rd tower (4060 m) from the south
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B No. 48105, May 22, 1979
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 560 m
    • average steepness — 55°–60°
    • length of sections: R1 — 600 m, R2 — 15 m, R3 — 20 m, R4 — 15 m, R5 — 30 m, R6 — 7 m, R7 — 40 m, R8 — 7 m, R9 — 5 m
  6. Pitons driven:
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Ascent route description to the summit of East Shalbuzdag (4060 m), the 2nd tower, via the 2B category of difficulty route with a detailed description of the path and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
  3. Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
    • Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
  4. Proposed complexity category: 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
    • category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Climbing passport for the summit of Seld (3666 m) via a combined route of 1B category of difficulty in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Combined route 295
  2. Climbing area — 2.9a East Caucasus
  3. Summit Sel'dyk (3666 m) from the South
  4. Difficulty category — 1B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m. Route length — 790 m (Ic.tr. — 690 m, Pc.tr. — 100 m). Average steepness — 30°.
  6. Rock pitons — 2, ice — 0, bolted — 0
  7. Number of travel hours — 9
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Traverse of the peaks I-st Zapadnaya Epadaz (4020 m) and Main Yarudag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3825 m), difficulty category 2A, rock class.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — traverse I-st Western Erydag (4020 m) — Main Yaru-dag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3925 m) 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 920–1010 m average slope — 50–60°, length of sections: R1 — 100, R2 — 150–200, R3 — 60, R4 — 300, R5 — 200, R6 — 100, R7 — 3000–3500 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock — 0, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 7 hours

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Report on the first ascent of the NW wall of Erydag (3887 m) in Dagestan by a team of Kharkov climbers in February 2012.

Report

On the ascent of the team from Kharkiv region to the summit of Erydag NW 3887 m via the Northwest wall. Presumably VI-A category of difficulty. First ascent.

via the Northwest wall. Presumably VI-A category of difficulty. First ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader, Timko E. N. Kharkiv 2012

1 Ascent participants

  1. Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. Master of Sports. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkiv, Akademika Pavlova st. 162A, apt. 118. Tel. +38095-125-33-40. Email poltalp@ukr.net
  2. Timko Evgeny Nikolaevich. 1st sports category. Kharkiv. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N.,
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Route Description: СЗ стене

SummitMateSSummitMate
15 days ago

A description of an alpine route, including dates, elevations, and technical details of the ascent.

21.02.2012 18824

R01R4122.02.2012
R421860 w
R43R38
R44R39
R45R15
  • R32
  • R33
  • R34
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Report on the first ascent by the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Erydag via the inner corners of the right bastion of the NW wall in January-February 2010.

Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category. Winter 2010

Report

on the first ascent by the Saint Petersburg team to Erydag (NW) 3877 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall. January–February 2010

Ascent Passport

  1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay valley
  2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall
  3. Complexity category: Proposed 6B category, first ascent
  4. Route type: rock
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Report on the ascent of the team from the Arkhangelsk region and Tatarstan to the summit of Erydag NW through the cornices of the right bastion of the NW wall via the Shanovozov's route, category 6B difficulty.

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation

of Arkhangelsk Region

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical and High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent of the team from Arkhangelsk Region and Tatarstan Republic to the summit of Erydag Northwest, 3887 m, via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, following Shanovazov's route, 2005, category 6B Leader: Dmitry A. Rybalchenko Participants:

  • Mikhail A. Veshchagin
  • Rasim G. Kashapov
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Report on completing a mountaineering route of 6B category of complexity to the summit of Erydag via the cornices of the central part of the NW wall.

Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)

Passport of Ascent

  1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
  2. Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
  3. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
  4. Category of complexity 6B.
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