15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region of ascent, mountain range — Pamiro-Alay, Kichik-Aks ridge
3. Peak — Repin­tash Height — 3900 m. Ascent route — via the northern slope
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3–5
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 900 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 55°
   • Average steepness — 55°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alai ridge
3. Peak — Gelin-Tash Height — 3900 m Ascent route — via the southern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2–6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 650 m

R. G. Veryasov, 62

Location and Approaches (4120)

Peak Andizhan is located in the crest of the Peredovoy Ridge between the Ak-Buura and Kyrgyz-Ata rivers on the northern slopes of the Kikik-Alay Ridge. Its southern slopes descend to the Kaldyrama River (the eastern tributary of the Kyrgyz-Ata River). A vehicle usually drives from Osh through Naukhat and past the forestry department to the foot of Mount Mazar (see description of Peak 40th Anniversary of the Soviet Army). Mount Mazar and Peak Andizhan stand opposite each other. In other words, the ascent to Peak Andizhan can be made from the vehicle stopping point.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we start ascending along a grassy slope. The slope is partially covered with juniper forest. We ascend 300-350 m along the grassy slope on the right side of a couloir. This couloir reaches the pre-summit ridge and is visible from the base camp. It is difficult and dangerous to walk along the couloir itself due to the fine scree and potential rockfall. Then, along the ridge, we ascend another 350-400 m on very fragmented rocks and scree to the beginning of the couloir. We ascend along the couloir on coarse scree to a saddle. The ascent path is 90-100 m, with a steepness of 30-35°. The summit is visible from the saddle. On the way to the summit, there are some rocky outcrops, but they can be bypassed on the left. We approach the summit. The exit to the summit itself is along a monolithic rock, where belaying is necessary. The ascent to the summit on the rock is 6-7 m. Steepness is 35-40°. The entire path from the camp to the summit takes 4.5-5 hours. The descent is along the ascent path to the saddle, and then down the couloir on scree.

109. Altyn-Beshik via the North Ridge. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 900 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alp camp (group of 4-12 people) go down the road to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge and, turning left, ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River in the eponymous gorge to the first side gorge (сай). Here, turn right and ascend along the pack trail on the right side of the side gorge, then across the moraine and scree up and right, to reach a small plateau between the Altyn-Beshik peak and a solitary gendarme. From the alp camp — 3–3.5 hours. On the plateau is the initial bivouac. From the plateau, go left and up along the easy rocky Western Ridge to the 1st rocky rise. Bypass the rise by traversing across the scree on the right to a couloir. Through simple steep 45–50° rocks on the left, then right side of the couloir ("live" rocks, drippy ice, piton belay), make a 100–120-meter ascent to the North Ridge. Along the horizontal 40-meter North Ridge, a 5-meter moderately difficult wall, and 50–60 meters of easy North Ridge on scree, reach a scree shelf below the 2nd rise.

108. Altyn-Beshik via the West Ridge. The route is combined, category 2A. (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-12 people) down the road along the Kurgan valley to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge, turn left and ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River to the first side valley (say). Here, turn right and up along the pack trail on the right side of the side valley, then ascend via scree to the Chita-Biit pass. From the alpine camp — 3-3.5 hours. At the pass is the starting bivouac. From the starting bivouac, traverse via grassy slopes and scree under the northern slopes of Altyn-Beshik peak to approach a wide couloir filled with 1-2 m scree, descending from under the West Ridge. Having passed the couloir, turn left and ascend via steep 50° simple rock of large block structure

77. Agidel from the North, Cat. 1B The route is ice-snow, Cat. 1B (Fig. 5, 61).

• Length — 600 m
• Elevation gain — 300 m
• Ascent time — 4–5 h The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alp camp (no group size limit) to the Joldzhilga pass is described in Route 18. Descend from the pass down a 150–200-meter talus-filled couloir onto the South Joldzhilga Glacier. Cross the glacier to the right and upwards (closed crevasses) and go under the north-eastern slopes of the Agidel summit, located in the left corner of the upper South Joldzhilga Glacier. From the glacier, after traversing the bergschrund, ascend along a 300–400-meter ice-snow slope followed by easy, broken 30–40-meter rocks to the summit of Agidel. From the Joldzhilga pass, it will take 2–2.5 hours.

п. Дружбы 5196 When choosing the route, safe approaches to it were studied, and reconnaissance of the approach was carried out. Since the ridge is a smooth monolithic rock, alternating with heavily destroyed ones, we took several large loops (Ø up to 1 m) to organize insurance points by throwing them on very large ledges, which justified itself very well. And also full sets of nuts and "friends" were taken, which is irreplaceable on such relief. The complexity of the relief made it necessary to rely on the work of the first participant without a backpack. The remaining participants climbed up the ropes with top rope. To provide the leader with pitons and nuts, the second participant cleaned the route from pitons as much as possible. On easy sections of the route, the first participant went with a light backpack. By the end of the first day of the route, it started raining with snow, so in the morning of the second day everything was covered with a small layer of snow. On the first overnight stay on a rubble inclined shelf, ropes were organized, fixed on ice screws that passed through the tent. All participants spent the night in harnesses and on self-arrest. Observers (MS Boyko V., CMS Lebedev M., doctor Valikov E.) were staying overnight near the glacier, from where the route was almost entirely visible. Regular radio communication (at least 2 times a day) was maintained with groups in the Gaumysh gorge and through them with the base camp in the Alaudin gorge. ¹

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alai Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge.
4. Expected complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |

I. Climbing category

technical 2. Climbing area, ridge Alaisky 3. Peak, its height, climbing route Tekelik Yuzhny named after Oлеко Dundich 4925 m via the Southern ridge 4. Proposed category complexity 3B (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference ridge 1000 m length of sections 5–6 c/tr