ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

Be­zu­la V. 4378

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Belukha V. 4506 m, via the North face through the saddle, ice.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m, length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 214 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 6, ice 55.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:

RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP in ALPINISM ICE-SNOW CLASS BELUKHA EASTERN 4506 m via North-West wall through icefalls first ascent SAYANOGORSK 1986 Addresses:

1. Krasnoyarsk Krai Saynogorsk

1. Climbing type — snow-ice
2. Climbing area, ridge — Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-Kem valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Belukha Vostochnaya, 4506 m, via icefalls of the North-West wall
4. Difficulty category — approximately 50, first ascent
5. Main characteristics of the route: height difference — 1506 m, length — 2033 m, average steepness — 57°, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 543 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, ice — 95, no screw-in pitons, placed protection — 8
7. Moving hours — 13 h

Ееаяха peak. 4500

1.1. Russian Mountaineering Championship. Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall by the team from the Mountain-Altai Emergency Rescue Service (PSS) of the EMERCOM of Russia, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33. Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya St., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-kem gorge

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

I. Belukha-cross by the Central Counterfort of the Northern wall 5B cat. difficulty (first ascent). The ascent was made on August 2-5, 1984 by a group of trainers from the MAL "Altai-84" camp:

• Loktionov V.M. — leader, Master of Sports, instructor;
• Kochetov V.S. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Veiko V.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Soloboev V.E. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor. Moscow, 1986 In the 1983 and 1984 seasons, the international mountaineering camp "Altai" operated in the Belukha area. The Northern wall of the Belukha massif (photo 1) drew the most attention and heightened interest from all mountaineers, as it turned out to be unclimbed (at that time). Two routes were particularly tempting:
• through the center of the Northern wall of East Belukha (via the direttissima);
• Belukha-cross with ascent via the Central counterfort of the Northern wall.