XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement.

Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard.

Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps.

Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs.

Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha.

Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m.

Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m.

Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices!

Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

Sec. R15–R16. Along the firn-covered glacier, crossing the Western plateau with a slight drop and gain in height diagonally, towards the main summit of the October Ridge. The path's extent across the plateau is 5 km at an altitude of 4000 m.

Sec. R16–R17 · Snow slope 45°, 200 m. In the middle part, a bergschrund 1 m. Entry onto the summit ridge.

Sec. R17–R18 · System of ice fractures on the summit ridge. Passage along snow bridges. Overall steepness 40°, extent 150 m. On the summit of XX years of October, a large snow cornice. Descent via the route of 4th cat. diff. onto the Ak-kem glacier.