Passport
I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS
Participants:
- Eremin A.V. 3rd sports category
- Ishenin A.E. 3rd sports category
- Plotnikov V.G. MS
- Rusakov Yu.V. 1st sports category
- Taymasov O.R. 1st sports category
- Coach Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS 1st cat.
- Departure to the route July 8, 1996
Return July 8, 1996
II. Organization: "West Siberian Search and Rescue Service".
6. Mt. Boris, NE slope
6. Mt. Boris, NE slope
Mt. Boris, NE slope, 3A cat. dif. (approx.)
From the base camp on Akkem lake, move along the shore to the confluence of the Akkem river and the lake. Cross the river ford and then follow the trail to the Karachik stream, which flows into the Akkem river.
Move along Karachik, then left up the large scree to rise to the plateau below the N ridge of Mt. Boris. 2.5–3 h walk from the base camp.
Then:
- Up to the right along the large scree, bypassing the N ridge of Mt. Boris from the east to the moraine lake;
- From the lake, move up in the direction of the rocky step with a waterfall, which blocks the approach to the NE slope of Mt. Boris;
- Ascend the step to the right of the waterfall 150–200 m, rocks of 2nd cat. dif., length 15–20 m;
- Then up the scree to the snowy neck of the NE slope.
1.5–2 h from the plateau below the N ridge.
The NE slope is snow-ice. The key section — 4 ropes of ice with a steepness of 45–50° — is climbed with piton protection.
The snow-ice slope leads to the subpeak Boris, from which the descent into the col passes along rocks of 2–3 cat. dif. with alternating belay. From the col, ascend to the summit along snowy rocks of 2nd cat. dif.
Descent from Mt. Boris via 3rd ridge on the route of 1B cat. dif.