Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee.

Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports

1996 year

Passport

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
  3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
  4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
  5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m

Length of the wall section — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. sl. — 950 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56° (3150–4100 m).

  1. Pitons driven: rock — 5 chocks — 8 ice screws — 78

  2. Travel hours: 2 hours, 1 day

  3. Overnight stay: on the descent

  4. Leader: PLOTNIKOV Ivan Alexandrovich Master of Sports of International Class participant: TUMYALIS Vladimir Vitalius Candidate Master of Sports

  5. Coaches: KUZNETSOV Nikolai Alexandrovich Candidate Master of Sports PLOTNIKOV Ivan Alexandrovich Master of Sports of International Class

  6. Approach to the route: August 26, 1996 Summit — August 26, 1996 Return — August 27, 1996

  7. Organization: Altai Regional Sports Committee img-0.jpeg

PHOTO #1. General photo of the northwest wall of Belukha (V) summit. Taken from the left counterfort of the XX Years of October summit in February 1996. Camera — "Kodak".

Routes

  1. Moscow, 1996. Delaunay via NW wall, first ascent
  2. G. Andreeva, 1951. Delaunay via NW wall, 5B cat. sl.
  3. Team, 1996. Belukha (V) via the right part of NW wall, 3rd passage
  4. A. Belov, 1986. Belukha (V) via icefalls of NW wall, 5B cat. sl.
  5. A. Afanasiev, 1986. Belukha (V) via direttissima of N wall, 5A (approx. 5B) img-1.jpeg

PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall on the left. Photo by A. Provatorov (Barnaul) img-2.jpeg

img-0.jpegimg-0.jpegimg-1.jpegimg-1.jpegimg-2.jpegimg-2.jpeg

Attached files

Sources

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