1.1. Russian Mountaineering Championship. Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall by the team from the Mountain-Altai Emergency Rescue Service (PSS) of the EMERCOM of Russia, Gorno-Altaysk.

Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33.

Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya St., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-kem gorge
3. Belukha (V) peak, 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, 1st ascent
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m
6. Wall section length — 1100 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m Average steepness of the wall section –56° (150–4100)
7. Pitons used: rock anchors — 93, ice screws — 5.
8. Climbing hours: 12 days — 2.
9. 1st on Mt. Emychka between depos — Belukha (V)
10. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V.
11. Participant: Zyatkov Nikolay Alekseevich
12. Coach: Yakubovsky V.I.
13. Departure for the route: August 21, 1996 Summit: August 22, 1996 Return: August 22, 1996
14. Organization: Gorno-Altaisk PSS EMERCOM of Russia.

Tactical actions and route description

During the Russian Mountaineering Championship in the ice and snow class, the team from the Gorno-Altaisk PSS made the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall.

The route is combined. Rock sections are covered with flow ice, which presents certain difficulties.

Section 1–2: Crossing the bergschrund. Simultaneous movement. Belay on ice screws.

Section 2–3: Rock covered with ice. Movement along ice streams, alternating, as the slope is steep (75–85°). There are sections where the flow ice is very thin. Both ice and rock equipment are used (pitons, anchors).

Section 3–4: Ice section – 40–45°. Simultaneous movement. Belay on ice screws.

Section 4–5: Snow and ice ridge with rock outcrops. Simultaneous movement.

Descent from the summit via the route of 3B category of difficulty.

Route profile on the right

The photo was taken in February 1996 with a "Kodak" camera.