RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee.

Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports

1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (3), 4400 m, direttissima of the northern wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1300 m, total length — 1750 m

Length of the wall section — 1400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 800 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 52° (3100–4250 m).

6. Pitons used: rock 6, chocks 12, ice screws 72.

7. Climbing hours: 12, days — 1

8. Overnight stay: on descent

9. Team leader: PLOTNIKOV Ivan Aleksandrovich, Master of Sports of International Class. Team member: TUMYALIS Vladimir Vitalius, Master of Sports, 1st category.

10. Coaches: PLOTNIKOV Ivan Aleksandrovich, Master of Sports of International Class, phone 410-310. KUZNETSOV Nikolai Aleksandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category.

11. Departure for the route: August 21, 1996 Summit — August 21, 1996 Return — August 22, 1996

12. Organization: Altai Krai Sports Committee.

PHOTO # 1. General photo of the Akkem wall. Taken from the slopes of Boris peak (3375 m) on August 7, 1996. Camera — "Smena-8M".

Routes

1. G. Andreeva, 51, Delaunay route via NW wall, 5B category of difficulty.
2. Gorno-Altaisk, 96, Belukha (V) via right NW wall, first ascent.
3. A. Belova, 86, Belukha (V) via icefalls of NW wall, 5B category of difficulty.
4. A. Afanasieva, 86, Belukha (V) via direttissima of N wall, 5A (originally 5B) category of difficulty.
5. Team, 96, Belukha (W) via direttissima of N wall, first ascent.

PHOTO # 2. Wall profile on the right. Taken from the summit of Urusvati (3556 m) in July 1996. Camera — "Smena-8M".

Tactical actions and route description

After winning the ice technique competition at the "school", our team chose the route for the first ascent (penultimate by draw). In principle, this approach is not entirely fair, but despite this, the team chose one of the most beautiful and logical routes in the area to Belukha West (4400 m), which has a not very high rating (also unfair).

The route goes via the direttissima of the northern wall.

• R0–R1. The start of the route is a bergschrund. Then along an ice-firn slope with a steepness of up to 45° — approach to the rock belt. Movement is simultaneous and alternating, insurance via ice screws.
• R1–R2. Rock belt — ice-covered rocks. It is possible to pass this section via ice streams, but in some places the ice crust is very thin and crumbles. Movement is alternating, insurance using ice and rock equipment.
• R2–R3. Ice slope, with steepness in some areas up to 80°. The length of this section is up to 70 m, the ice is very hard, "bottle-like". Movement is alternating, insurance via ice screws, using "ice fifi".
• R3–R4. Ice-snow section, with steepness up to 40–45°. Movement is simultaneous and alternating, insurance via ice screws and ice axes.
• R4–R5. The start of the ice slope, with steepness up to 45–50°, then before the rock section the steepness increases to 55–60°. The rock section is cut by an "ice river" in the form of cascades, with steepness in some places up to 70–75°. Movement is alternating, insurance via ice screws, using "ice fifi". It is possible to use rock equipment. At the exit, before the ridge, a control cairn is left.
• R5–R6. Pre-summit ridge, exit to the summit.

Descent:

• via the Western plateau
• then along the left counterfort of the peak XX let Oktyabrya, 4A category of difficulty.

Climbing in crampons.