V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

Description of the Ascent of the Northern Ridge of Kurkurek Peak in the North Chuya Range

The actual climbing route along the northern ridge of Kurkurek begins after the climbers, having left their camp, descend to the transfer base at the beginning of the Aktru gorge and then ascend through the windfalls and debris of the taiga to the foot of the peak. Although this does not relate to the climbing difficulty of the ascent, it requires a significant initial expenditure of energy from the sports group over 8–10 hours. A bivouac, from which the ascent up the northern ridge of the peak begins, can be set up on the ridge itself. Initially, it is not difficult, starting as a steep grassy slope (1 hour's walk), followed by a gentle (25°) fine and medium talus, and then a steeper (35°) coarse quartz talus. Further along, the ridge becomes more pronounced but remains easily passable, as its ascents are not steep, and the width of the ridge is sufficient for setting up a tent. From the river at the tongue of the Kurkurek glacier to the extremely convenient sites for an overnight stay, located directly on the ridge, it takes approximately 3 hours. The overnight stay is located about 900–1000 meters below the peak. The path is then blocked by six more or less pronounced gendarmes composed of shale rocks. The first three gendarmes are bypassed on the right, the fourth and fifth are climbed head-on, and the sixth is traversed on the right along a ledge at the boundary of a snowfield that steeply descends onto the Kurkurek glacier between the northern and northwestern ridges of the peak. The time required by the group to overcome this section is 2.5 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Kupol via North-West slope.
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty (the group of first ascensionists KSYUTUR of the Altai Krai under the leadership of Nazarenko V.A. in 1993 assessed the route as 3B, which is clearly overestimated).
5. Elevation difference 650 m, length 1900 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Drakin A.V., CMS

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Altai, Severo-Chuisky ridge, Aktru valley.
3. V. Kupol via the Western wall couloir.
4. Proposed category 1B (the route has been climbed multiple times, but has apparently never been submitted for classification).
5. Elevation gain 1420 m, distance 4200 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Climbing time: 8 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Sokolov V.P., 1st sports category, 3rd category and novice group.

Central Altai. North-Tuinsky ridge. 112. Ridge. 113. Peak, its height, ascent route: 114. Khrasavitsa 3700 m via the northern wall 115. Required difficulty category: 3 116. Route characteristics: Terrain height 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — Average steepness 40–50° 117. Number of insurance hooks: Steel 6, Aluminum 3 118. Number of via ferrata pegs: 14–16 pcs. 119. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:

Ascent

The ascent to v. Krasavitsa via the northern wall (approximately 3A category of difficulty) was made by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. GROUP COMPOSITION

1. Kuznetsov N. A. 2nd sports category
2. Bondarchuk N. M. Master of Sports
3. Luzhetsky B. N. Master of Sports
4. Makeev V. P. CMS
5. Morgachev V. N. 1st sports category
6. Fedorov V. A. 1st sports category Group Leader: KUZNETSOV N. A.

Traverse Korumdu - Aktru 4A cat.

Approach from Aktru base in Ak-Su gorge - 3 - 2.5 hours. The beginning of the route is the exit to the ridge of the Korumdu massif (orographic left ridge in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended exit to the ridge at the border of the greenery with the scree. Movement along the 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. There are at least three places for overnight stays on the ridge (with platforms for tents). The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome along a crack with hook insurance (1 rope). After bypassing the last gendarme, there is a descent to the left to a small blue lake, after which the main, complex combined part of the route begins. At the lake, at the subsequent two snow-ice pockets of the ridge, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The main ice ascent (4 ropes - 40°) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. In the left part, rockfall is possible from the rocks located above, even in the morning hours. After exiting onto the snowy ridge and a short ice ascent (1 rope) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, approaching from the right. Further movement is to the left: first along the snow, then along the steep firn (3 ropes). A relatively small rocky gendarme is bypassed on the right, then:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru valley.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the center of the north face.
3. 6A category of difficulty, 3rd ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 1030 m. Route length — 1298 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 195 m, VI category of difficulty – 255 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 73°, total route — 59°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted pitons — 0, including artificial aids — 0; removable bolted pitons — 2, including artificial aids — 2.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 940 m. Route length — 1230 m. Length of sections with 5 and 6 category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 61°
• entire route — 50°