PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Kupol via North-West slope.
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty (the group of first ascensionists KSYUTUR of the Altai Krai under the leadership of Nazarenko V.A. in 1993 assessed the route as 3B, which is clearly overestimated).
5. Elevation difference 650 m, length 1900 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Drakin A.V., CMS Penzev V.N., 2nd sports category
10. Coach Drakin A.V., CMS instructor 1st category № 68.
11. Departure and return July 27, 1997.
12. Organizing body Rubtsovsk city sports committee.

Photo #1. V. Kupol via NW slope. Shooting point #1. Camera "Smena 8M", Lens LOMO T-43 4/40.

Photo #2. V. Kupol via NW slope. Shooting point #2. Camera "Smena 8M", Lens LOMO T-43 4/40. Panorama taken from point #3. Camera "Smena 8M", Lens LOMO T-43 4/40.

Kupol via North-West slope 2B category of difficulty (tentative)

From the base camp located in the area of PSO Aktru, move along the trail up to the bridge across the Aktru River (25-35 min). Cross the river over the bridge and approach the tongue of the Maly Aktru glacier along the stream. Ascend to the lower flat part of the glacier to the point where a lateral branch, flowing from the Kupol peak, merges with it from the right (orographically). The ascent to the summit follows this glacial branch.

The lower part of the glacier tongue is steep. 3 ropes (120 m) are overcome with thorough ice screw protection and rope installation. The next 3 ropes can be traversed with ice screw support. Further, the glacier flattens out, and one should move along the edge of the glacier and the scree slope on the left. The glacier leads to the snow-ice slope of the Kupol peak. Ascend to the summit via the gentle snow-ice slope.

Time to ascend to the summit: 7-8 hours.

Descend via the couloir of the Western wall, category 1B.

Technical description of sections

• R0–R1: 120 m, 50° (category 4 difficulty section) — 7 ice screws.
• R1–R2: 120 m, 40–30° (category 3 difficulty section) — 5 ice screws.
• R2–R3: 400 m, 10–15° (category 1 difficulty section).
• R3–R4: 450 m, 25° (category 2 difficulty section).
• R4–R5: 800 m, 20° (category 1 difficulty section).