Ascent Log

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Region 2.10. Dagestan Mountains, Snegovoy Ridge.
3. Diklosmta, traverse of peaks: South (4101 m) – West (4240 m) – Central (4285 m) – East (4275 m), combined route.
4. Proposed category of complexity: 3B, first ascent.
5. Length: sections of 1st category – 780 m, 2nd category – 1200 m, 3rd category – 500 m, 4th category – 200 m, total route length – 2700 m.
6. Pitons used: rock – 2 pcs., ice screws – 3 pcs. Pitons left on the route: rock – 2 pcs. (on the descent from the South peak).
7. Climbing hours – 8.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay at Base Camp on "Intikay" sites (200 m) and overnight stay on the descent from the East peak, on the snow-ice pad of the "East shoulder" (4150 m).

Climbing Passport

I. Route Type: COMBINED 2. Eastern Caucasus (Dagestan mountains) 3. Traverse of the DIKLOSMTA massif (4275 m, 4285 m, 4240 m, 4101 m) from East to South 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics:

• total distance — 3200 m
• total elevation gain — 1740 m
• average steepness — traverse
• section lengths: R1 — 1770 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.

I. Climbing area 2. Climbing category 3. Peak, its elevation 4. Ascent route 5. Estimated difficulty category 6. Route description 7. Number of pitons used 8. Number of bivouacs and their description 9. Number of travel hours 10. Surname, I.O. of team leader and participants, their sports qualification

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. 3. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. 7. Climbing hours – 4. 8. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). 9. Leader:

1. Ascent class: Comb. 27
2. Ascent region: №2–9 (East Caucasus)
3. Summit, height, ascent route: peak 4040 (S. Gadzhieva, 3912 m) via the western ridge through peak 3800 (Bichuga)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1100 m, length of section I difficulty category – 1360 m, IV difficulty category – 40 m
6. Rock hooks hammered: 4 Protrusions used: 3
7. Number of walking hours: 2
8. Number of overnight stays: No overnight stays
9. Leader and participants:

Ascent Passport.

1. First ascent category.
2. Region 2.10., Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Shalib ridge.
3. Bodonai 4049 m, via the Northeast wall, combined route.
4. 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 50 °, length 730 m, by sections: 1 – 270 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 130 m, 4 – 120 m, 5 – 50 m, 6 – 10 m, of which climbing with aid: A2 – 10 m.
6. Used: 21/8 chocks, 18/2 rock pitons, 3 "carrot" ice screws, 1 rock protrusion; 3 rock pitons left on the route (at points 6, 8 (control cairn), 10).
7. Climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Overnight at the moraine pocket (3500 m) in the NE cirque, in the upper reaches of the Bodonai river.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: № 2.9 (East Caucasus) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Bodonay 4049 m, via the northeast ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 5. Route characteristics: — elevation gain 600 m — average steepness 40° — section lengths: R1 — 300 m, R2 — 600 m, R3 — 50 m 6. Pitons driven: rock: —

Bichuga Malaz

2.10.27 2.9А.46. 21

Brief Characteristics of the Summit

Peak 3900 m in the western spur of the Bogossky ridge. This spur branches off from the watershed in the area of peak S. Gadzhiev, peak 3900, peak Serazhutdin Gadzhiev, Bochek, and peak Magomed Gadzhiev, forming a horseshoe that borders the Bichuga glacier. Peak 3902 is an almost perfect pyramid composed of sandstone and shale. A route to peak S. Gadzhiev via peak 3902 was established in October 1981. When describing this route, as well as the Bochek — S. Gadzhiev — 3800 traverse, an inaccuracy was made in determining the height of this peak. Determining the height using topographic map contours made it possible to clarify the peak's height — 3900 m.

Description of the Approach to the Base Camp

From the village of Khonokh in the TsUMADINSKY district of the Dagestan ASSR, located 50 km from the regional center Agvali, go left towards the farm in the direction of the characteristic rock "gates". Before reaching them, cross the river and ascend along the trail to a small pine grove. Continue along the trail, which makes a steep ascent in a serpentine manner up the grassy slope, to reach a koshar (2 hours from Khonokh). The trail traverses the slope with a slight gain in height in the direction of the confluence of the Bichuga and Tinav-chegelatly rivers. From the stream that has cut a deep and narrow canyon into the rocky bed, turn left, cross a clearing, and, moving along the rocky slabs, reach the trail leading to the second — "upper" koshar (1–1.5 hours from the lower koshar). Here, you can set up a camp — there are convenient clearings and water.

Description of the Approach to the Route and the Route

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing Area 2. Climbing Class 3. Peak, its Height 4. Climbing Route 5. Estimated Difficulty Category 6. Route Characteristics 7. Pitons 8. Number of Overnight Stays and their Characteristics