Kuznetsk Alatau

Description of category 1B route to Sredniy Zub peak and KVI in Kuznetskiy Alatau.

ASCENT REPORT Ascent category — rock climbing. Ascent region — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge. Peaks: Sredniy Zub 1826 KhVI 2005 Estimated category of difficulty — 1B, for winter conditions. Distance — 1900 m Elevation gain — 630 m Average slope of the route — 22° Pitons driven — none.

Traverse of peaks XVII - East Zub from "Bypesnikov" lake via 3rd category route: detailed description of the approach, ascent and descent.

Traverse of KVI—B. Zub from the "Graduates" lake via a 3B category route From the "Graduates" lake, ski to the cirque between KVI and Sredny Zub along the southern slope of Sredny Zub. The approach takes 1.5 hours. Leave the skis in the cirque and, in a team, ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45° to the eastern ridge of KVI, with alternate belay. Before reaching the ridge, there are two gendarmes: the first one is ascended "head-on," and the second is bypassed on the right. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous, with belay via outcrops. Along the ridge, approach the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°. Move on the left side, with alternate belay, and after 50 m, exit under the ridge rocks. From under the rocks, traverse to the right to reach a saddle. Midway up, there is a stone outcrop convenient for belay. The approach to the summit of KVI is via easy rocks with some ice. The ascent to KVI takes about 7 hours. From the summit, traverse 15 m along the ridge towards B. Zub and organize a 40 m rappel to a saddle. From the saddle, move up via moderately difficult rocks. The route continues along the ridge. The first three gendarmes are passed "head-on," and the rest are bypassed on the right; the exit to the summit is via easy, snow-covered rocks. The KVI—B. Zub route takes 3 hours. The descent via a category 1B route takes 3 hours.

### Detailed description of a category 6A route to "Staraya Krepost" peak (2217 m) in Kuznetskiy Alatau, including a thorough analysis of the ascent and safety guidelines.

9.5.9 Climbing Passport Kuznetsky Alatau, section 9.5 Peak "Staraya Krepost'", 2217 m, via the center of the NE wall. Proposed 6A winter category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type — rock climbing. Route height difference — 435 m. Route length — 460 m. Section lengths: Category V — 105 m.

Description of a 3B category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoy Zub via the center of the North face in **Kungoy Alatau**.

Ascent Record Ascent category — rock climbing. Ascent area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger Tysh ridge. Summit — Bolshoy Zub (2045 m) via the center of the North face. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined. Length — 540 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 63°. Average steepness of the entire route — 51°. Number of pitons driven: | rock | wired | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: |

Description of a category 3B route via the North Face of Bolshoy Zub peak (2045) in Kuznetskiy Alatau.

Passport Climbing category — rock. Climbing area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge. Peak — Bolshoy Zub (2045) via the North face. Anticipated category complexity — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined. Route length — 440 m Length of sections with 5th category complexity — 60 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 59°. Average steepness of the entire route — 53°. Pitons hammered: rock — 23 chocks — 2

Description of the ascent route to the summit "Bolshoy Zub" (2048 m) via the western counterfort of 2B difficulty category in Kuznetsk Alatau.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent class: rock. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge. Peak "Bolshoy Zub" (Big Tooth) 2048 m above sea level. Route is combined, via the western counterfort. Estimated difficulty category: 2B. Height difference is about 600 m. Pitons hammered: rock 4 pcs., chock stones 6 pcs. Number of travel hours: ascent 4 hours, descent 3 hours. No overnight stay is planned; the route is completed in 1 day.

Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoy Zub in Kuznetsk Alatau via the northern edge of the eastern ridge.

ASCENT PASS Ascent class: rock. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge. Bolshoy Zub peak, 2048 m above sea level, combined route on the Western counterfort of the southern ridge. Estimated difficulty category: 2A. Route characteristics: height difference about 600 m, average slope of ascent — 45 degrees. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 pcs. Number of travel hours — 8 hours. Overnight stays are not provided — the route is completed in one day. Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich — instructor, CMS.

Description of the ascent route to the summit "Bolshoy Zub" (2048 m) in Kuznetsk Alatau along the northern edge of the eastern ridge, complexity category 2A.

To No. 583 of 19.04.1988 ASCENT RECORD Type of ascent: rock climbing. Area of ascent: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tigertysh Ridge. Peak "Bolshoi Zub" 2048 m above sea level. The route is a combination via the northern edge of the eastern ridge. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A category. Height difference — about 600 m. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 3 pcs. Number of climbing hours: ascent 6 hours, descent 3 hours. No overnight stays are planned; the route is completed in 1 day.

Description of the Kuznetsk Alatau mountain region and the ascent route to Bolshoy Zub peak via the Caucasian Eastern ridge, category 1B complexity.

Characteristics of the Region Administratively, the region is part of the Askizsky District of the Krasnoyarsk Krai and borders on the Kemerovo Oblast to the east. The mountain-taiga steel railway line Novokuznetsk—Abakan connects the remote, previously hard-to-reach areas of Khakassia and Kuznetsk Alatau. Departing from Novokuznetsk station at 17:25, the train arrives at Luzba station at 23:30 local time. The region's climate is sharply continental and harsh. Abundant precipitation contributes to the lush development of vegetation in the summer. During the winter months, a thick snow cover accumulates; in river valleys, it reaches a thickness of 2–3 meters, hiding buildings under it. In settlements: Footpaths are laid at the level of eaves; Train compositions run along tracks in deep snow trenches. The administrative boundary of the regions almost coincides with the climatic boundary: the eastern slopes of Kuznetsk Alatau, located in Khakassia, differ significantly from the western slopes in terms of precipitation, and in winter, the snow cover is much less beyond the Tiger-Tyshsky and Surgassky ridges. This area has significantly more sunny days than the valleys of the Kozyr, Bel-Su, Amzas rivers, etc. Relief. Kuznetsk Alatau, bordering the Kuznetsk depression to the east, is an orographically complex massif where absolute heights reach 2000–2100 m above sea level. The region is generally characterized by mid-mountain relief, transitioning into small-hilly, hilly-ridge relief to the east (Photo 1).