Traverse of KVI—B. Zub

from the "Graduates" lake via a 3B category route

From the "Graduates" lake, ski to the cirque between KVI and Sredny Zub along the southern slope of Sredny Zub. The approach takes 1.5 hours. Leave the skis in the cirque and, in a team, ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45° to the eastern ridge of KVI, with alternate belay. Before reaching the ridge, there are two gendarmes: the first one is ascended "head-on," and the second is bypassed on the right. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous, with belay via outcrops.

Along the ridge, approach the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°. Move on the left side, with alternate belay, and after 50 m, exit under the ridge rocks. From under the rocks, traverse to the right to reach a saddle. Midway up, there is a stone outcrop convenient for belay.

The approach to the summit of KVI is via easy rocks with some ice. The ascent to KVI takes about 7 hours.

From the summit, traverse 15 m along the ridge towards B. Zub and organize a 40 m rappel to a saddle. From the saddle, move up via moderately difficult rocks.

The route continues along the ridge. The first three gendarmes are passed "head-on," and the rest are bypassed on the right; the exit to the summit is via easy, snow-covered rocks.

The KVI—B. Zub route takes 3 hours. The descent via a category 1B route takes 3 hours.

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Photo 5.

TABLE

Main characteristics of the ascent route

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Section characteristicsPitons
DesignationsAverage steepness in °LengthTerrain characteristicsDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsRockIce
R0–R120°4 kmSnowCrusted snowexcellentalternate
R1–R240°80 msnowCrusted snowexcellentice axe
R2–R325–30°300 mrocky ridge2goodseparateoutcrop
R3–R445°50 msnowgoodexcellentalternate
R4–R540°250 msnow4goodexcellentice axe
R5–R620°100 micy ridge22
R6–R780°40 mmonolith52
R7–R820–30°2 km312

Sources

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