Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger Tysh ridge.
3. Summit — Bolshoy Zub (2045 m) via the center of the North face.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
5. Length — 540 m

Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 63°. Average steepness of the entire route — 51°.

6. Number of pitons driven:

7. Group's total climbing hours — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Leader — Yasyukevich A. V. Candidate Master of Sports

Participants: Korobov P. A. 1st sports category, Korobko S. V. 1st sports category, Ivanykin K. V. 1st sports category

10. Group coach: Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich Master of Sports
11. Approach to the route — March 24, 1993.
12. Summit ascent — March 24, 1993.
13. Return to camp — March 24, 1993.
14. The group is part of the classification training for Alpinism of the Kuzbass Alpinade. www.alpfederation.ru↗

Scheme of the "Podnebesnye Zubya" area

Description of the approach to the route

From the base camp on "Vyipusknikov" lake, move upstream along the stream for 0.5 hours.

Then:

• Turn left and ascend to the North spur of peak 1972.
• Cross over the spur and the plateau behind it.
• Descend into the North-East cirque of peak Bolshoy Zub.

Then approach the North face of the summit. The approach to the route takes 2–2.5 hours from the base camp.

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Ascent to Bolshoy Zub via the center of the North face, 3B category of difficulty.

Description of the route to Bolshoy Zub summit via the center of the North face, 3B category of difficulty.

Section R0–R1. The route begins with a steep (up to 50°) snowy ledge. Along the ledge, move right and upwards to a characteristic rock spall, 120 m. Protection via ice axe. Section R1–R2. From the spall, traverse left for 40 m along a narrow ledge. Ice, rocks with ice formations. Climbing is difficult. Protection is via pitons. Section R2–R3. The ledge ends with a complex wall, which leads to a small platform. A control cairn is built on a rock outcrop. Section R3–R4. From the control cairn, a buttress with no clear definition goes straight up. 80 m of difficult climbing. Rocks are covered with snow. Protection is via pitons. Section R4–R5. Then there is a steep (up to 80 m) internal corner with ice formations, turning into a 20 m cleft. Climbing is very difficult, use of artificial climbing aids is possible. Protection is via pitons. Section R5–R6. After the cleft, the steepness of the wall decreases to 55°. Then, along rocks of moderate difficulty, covered with ice formations and snow, move to the base of a snowy couloir (100 m). Protection is via pitons. Section R6–R7. Up the snowy couloir with a steepness of 45°, 120 m, to the exit onto the North-East ridge of peak Bolshoy Zub. There is a good depression here. Protection via ice axe. Section R7–R8. Then, move right along the ridge (40 m) to the summit. Movement is simultaneous, protection via rock outcrops. The entire route is climbed in crampons. Descent is via the North ridge, following the 1B category route.