ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
3. Bolshoy Zub peak, 2048 m above sea level, combined route on the Western counterfort of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 600 m, average slope of ascent — 45 degrees.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stays are not provided — the route is completed in one day.
9. Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich — instructor, CMS. Romanov Alexander Valentinovich — II sports rank. Abelyashev Vyacheslav Vitalievich — II sports rank. Borozdenko Yuri Ivanovich — II sports rank. Izhboldin Alexey Borisovich — II sports rank. Loginova Svetlana Gennadievna — II sports rank.
10. Team coach — Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich.
11. Departure to the route and return — March 8, 1988.

"Bolshoy Zub peak via Western counterfort of the Southern ridge, 2A cat. diff., section R0–R5. Shot by A., lens Jupiter + teleconverter Ø 270 mm."

• R0–R1 200 m 40° II
• R1–R2 5 m 70° III
• R2–R3 50 m 60° II
• R3–R4 20 m 45° III
• R4–R5 20 m 60° III+
• R5–R6 120 m 40° II
• R6–R7 200 m 20° II

"BOLSHOY ZUB" VIA NORTHERN EDGE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE. (combined route 2A cat. diff.)

From the Graduates' Lake, we ascend steeply up and cross over the northwestern ridge of Bolshoy Zub. We reach a mossy plateau, and along it, we approach a clear depression in the spur of the northwestern ridge of Bolshoy Zub. From the saddle, we descend into the northern cirque of Bolshoy Zub: initially on scree, then on snow. Crossing the cirque, we approach the route, the approach takes — 3 hours. The approach is made with ski poles.

Ascent from the saddle along the ridge, simultaneous movement in rope teams. Having reached the snow-ice couloir, we hang two belay ropes. Belay is piton.

After the couloir, the ridge is combined, movement is simultaneous. We encounter a difficult section of the ridge (50 m), movement is alternate, belay is through ledges.

We approach the first "crux" (15 m), belay is piton, ropes are necessary.

Then we reach the "mushka", behind it a 50 m descent and an ascent to the second crux section. It consists of:

• a sharp rock ridge (15 m),
• an inner corner (5 m)
• an inclined shelf (5 m), belay is piton. Further along a simple combined ridge, we reach the summit. Ascent from the saddle to the summit takes 3 hours. Descent from the summit along the northwestern ridge 1B cat. diff. takes 3 hours.

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT FOR A GROUP OF 5 PEOPLE.

1. Crampons — 5 pairs.
2. Main rope — 2 × 40 m.
3. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 5 pcs.
5. Ice axes — 5 pcs.