To the summit from the last overnight stay

1. Geographical Information

Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov is located in the central Pamir in the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the Peak Revolyutsii massif. The average height of the ridge in this area is around 5900 m. The height of the summit is 6420 m (barometrically). The Peak Revolyutsii massif, together with Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov and Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, crowns a grandiose cirque - the 5900 m plateau, the beginning of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. To the south of the summit lies the Khabarvid-Khaya valley, to the east is Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, and to the west rises the massive Peak Revolyutsii.

2. Possible Ascent Routes

All possible routes to the summit of Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov start from the 5900 m plateau of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. There are three such paths:

1. Ascending from the south via a snow-ice slope to the 6300 m col, from where you can reach the summit via rocks.
2. Ascending to the same col from the north via a snowy slope with bergschrunds.
3. Ascending to the summit via the north-eastern ridge. The route from the Khabarvid-Khaya glacier is the most challenging and dangerous and is hardly passable.

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical category.
2. Yazgulem Range, Khavraz-Dara valley.
3. Peak 5870 m via the north-eastern wall of the western spur.
4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately).
5. Route characteristics Wall: length 1385 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 1155 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 230 m). Average steepness – 73° (steepness of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 80°). Total route length 2225 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 500 m, 3 category – 470 m, 2 category – 100 m).
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors (ITO) rock pitons – 104, including 10 for ITO ice pitons – 12, including 3 for ITO

Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7

Climbing Passport

I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, from the saddle of the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 647 m, average steepness 43°, section lengths — I 460 m, II 225 m, III 334 m, IV 38 m, V 68 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock II, ice —, bolted —; for creating ITO — rock 21.
7. Number of climbing hours: 13 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
7. Climbing time: 14 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2
9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

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