Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range.
3. Peak — Zamin-Karor 1st West (4303 m) via NW wall, a combination of Yefimov and Kapitanov routes.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1300 m
   • total length — 1500 m
   • average steepness of the wall section 82°
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1250 m
6. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 152+5ˣ/42+2ˣ
   • chocks — 84/30
   • friends — 44/21
   • ice screws — 0/0
   • bolt pitons — 4+35ˣ/20ˣ
   • sky-hooks — 43
   • fifi hooks — 11
7. Total climbing hours — 61 h (including processing); days — 4 (including descent) + 2 days of processing.
8. Overnight stays — 3, all bivouac on ledges; 1,2 — separate.
9. Names, I. O. of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:

10. Team coach: Volodin V. G., Timme E. A.
11. Dates of departure to the route and return to the base camp:

12. Conducting organization — Demchenko ЦСКА

General photo of the wall

1. Zamin-Karor 1st West 5B via left part of NW wall, V. Lavrushin, 1973
2. Zamin-Karor 1st West 6A via NW wall, A. Samoded, 1979
3. Zamin-Karor 1st West 6A via NW wall, O. Kapitanov, 1974
4. Zamin-Karor 1st West 6A via NW wall, A. Yefimov, 1979
5. Zamin-Karor 1st West 5B via central part of NW wall, G. Shramko, 1979
6. Route climbed by the team, 2005

Profile Scheme of the Route

Photo of wall profile on the left Map of the area

Fig. 1. Map of the ascent area

Overview of the Area and Climbing Object

The Zamin-Karor massif (Yaghnob Wall) is located in a spur of the Gissar Range, east of the Anzob Pass. The massif is connected to the main watershed of the Gissar Range by a high ridge, where the peak Khosilot (4625 m) is located. To the north of the Yaghnob Wall are individual peaks reaching 4000 m. Along the entire northern foot of the Yaghnob Wall, a narrow strip of glacier is located. The massif is bounded by the Pindor River valley to the west and the Tagrich River valley to the east, both flowing into the Yaghnob River.

The Zamin-Karor massif stretches 8 km in the latitudinal direction. The highest point is East Zamin-Karor (4767 m). The eastern part of the wall has significant glaciation from the north. The western part of the massif is purely rocky, with significant steepness.

Although the area is known for relatively stable hot weather, in recent years, the Pamir-Alay region has experienced poor and unstable weather in August. This was confirmed during the training camp near the Yaghnob Wall. Out of 25 days of training, about 20 were marked by bad weather, accompanied by heavy precipitation in the form of rain and even snowfall.

It is worth noting that the Yaghnob Wall area had not been visited by climbers for 15 years. Obtaining any consultation on the condition and choice of routes was not possible.

After analyzing descriptions and reports, the choice of the ascent route was made on a combination of Yefimov and Kapitanov routes on the 1st West peak of the Zamin-Karor massif via its NW wall (4303 m), as the most complex and lengthy combination of routes in this area. The route climbed leads directly to the summit and maintains its logic and feasibility. The route is complex, requiring not only comprehensive preparation of the team members but also experience in passing complex wall routes of great length and steepness.

The wall relief is technically extremely difficult. The main forms of relief are walls with a minimal number of cracks, often smoothed. The significant overhang of the upper part of the route, above the snow ledge, is noteworthy. Many overhanging, opening internal corners and chimneys are inconvenient for both free climbing and ITO.

Thus, based on the reports of Yefimov's team (lower part, up to the snow ledge) and Kapitanov's team (above the snow ledge) on their first ascents, the предполагаемая "thread" for the ascent was formed.

Organizational and Tactical Plan of the Ascent

Before climbing the wall, the team conducted a visual observation of the route, outlined the path, identified key sections, and determined possible bivouac locations. They reviewed reports from previously climbed teams.

The plan, considering poor weather conditions, allocated two days for processing the wall. Three overnight stays were planned directly on the route. All turned out to be lying, with two being separate.

In the Yaghnob Wall area this year, the Demchenko ЦСКА conducted training and evaluation camps. Thus, a monitoring group and a rescue team consisting of qualified athletes were present in the base camp during the ascent, in agreement with other camp members.

Before departing on the route, all team members in the summer 2005 season had completed various routes with 5–6 difficulty categories in different mountain systems and also participated in the Russian Championship in Yerydag, finishing 4th. The team had also climbed two routes to the southwest peak of Zamin-Karor:

• via the right part of the 3rd wall 5A
• via the shortest path of the 3rd wall 5B

Communication between the team and the base camp was carried out using Motorola VHF radios.

The tactical plan was as follows:

• August 16, 2005 — departure from the base camp. Processing of 3 ropes in the lower part of Yefimov's route. Return to the base camp.
• August 17, 2005 — departure from the base camp. Processing of 3 ropes. Return to the base camp.
• August 18, 2005 — departure from the base camp. Setting off. Climbing part of the route to bivouacs under the snow ledge. Processing.
• August 19, 2005 — climbing pre-hung belays. Climbing the section to a huge overhanging internal corner. Processing.
• August 20, 2005 — climbing pre-hung belays. Climbing as much of the remaining wall as possible. Overnight stay on the summit.
• August 21, 2005 — descent from the summit.

The tactical plan was largely adhered to, and the team successfully reached the summit on August 21, 2005, and descended to the base camp on the same day.

Modern mountaineering equipment was used during the ascent:

• main rope — 4 × 50 m
• auxiliary rappel rope — 15 m
• rock hammer — 2 pcs.
• rock pitons — 20 pcs. (various purposes)
• anchor pitons — 7 pcs.
• fifi hooks — 2 pcs.
• hatchets — 3 pcs.
• sky-hooks — 6 pcs. (various purposes)
• chock stones — 25 pcs.
• friends — 8 pcs.
• loops (various lengths) — 5 pcs.
• quickdraws (various lengths) — 30 pcs.
• claw hammers — 1 pair
• ladders — 1 pair
• bolt kit — 1 set

• personal and bivouac gear sets

Weather conditions:

• August 16, 2005 — rain throughout the day.
• August 17, 2005 — cloudy weather after noon, rain.
• August 18, 2005 — sunny during the day; strong rain after 16:00.
• August 19, 2005 — clear weather; wind picked up towards evening.
• August 20, 2005 — light cloudiness, relatively clear.
• August 21, 2005 — sunny, quite cold.

Route scheme in UIAA symbols Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Route Description by Sections

R0 — The snow slope approaches the base of the NW wall, then to the right along the snow "tongue" and "ram's foreheads" is the approach via "unit" (a large chip in the form of a unit). This is where the wall part of Yefimov's route begins. 400 m, 30–45°, 3.

R1 — The wall with an overhang in the middle part. Passed with partial use of ITO. 45 m, 80–95°, 6.

R2 — A wet internal corner leads to the top of the "unit". 35 m, 75°, 5+.

R3–R5 — Smooth plate-“mirror”. Passed using sky-hooks. Insurance — bolt. Insurance point in a comfortable niche on bolts. 125 m, 85°, 6.

R6 — Along the wall and chimney through the overhang, shift right through the "sliver". Control spur. 35 m, 70–95°, 5+, 10 m 6.

R7 — Destroyed internal corner. 45 m, 75°, 5+.

R8 — The internal corner turns into a chimney with an overhang. Wet and dirty. Rocks are heavily destroyed. 40 m, 90°, 6.

R9–R10 — Monolithic slabs separated by ledges. Many loose stones. 40 m, 75°, 5+.

R11 — An inclined slab leads to the base of the internal corner (traverse). 25 m, 3.

R12–R13 — A series of internal corners and cracks, dirty and wet. 100 m, 85°, 6.

R14–R17 — Slabs with cracks and an internal corner leading to a large snow ledge at the base of the "glass". 180 m, 70–80°, 5+, 5 m 6.

R18 — Bypassing snow on the left, exit to the "glass". 75 m, 40°, 3.

R19–R20 — A series of cracks passed by free climbing, partially on ITO. 85 m, 80–95°, 6.

R21 — A huge overhanging opening internal corner-chimney. Extremely difficult climbing. 45 m, 120°, 6.

R22 — Wall with two cornices. Difficult climbing. 35 m, 95°, 6.

R23 — Internal corner turning into a chimney. Pleasant climbing. 40 m, 80°, 5+.

R24 — Opening overhanging chimney. Then left along the internal corner. 40 m, 90–100°, 6.

R25 — Overhanging crack. ITO used. 45 m, 95°, 6.

R26 — Very difficult passage through the crack. Ends with a cornice. Exit to a ledge. 30 m, 110°, 6.

R27 — Bypassing the cornice on the left, exit to a blind crack passed using ITO. 40 m, 90°, 6.

R28 — The crack turns into bare slabs. Sky-hooks. Bolt insurance. 40 m, 90°, 6.

R29 — First on ITO, then climbing under a large internal corner-“book”, bypassing the cornice on the right. 20 m, 85°, 6.

R30 — Overcome the internal corner by free climbing. Good insurance. 50 m, 80°, 5+.

R31 — Along inclined slabs (inside a "bowl") exit to a ledge. Insurance is limited. 50 m, 80°, 5+.

R32–R33 — Upward along internal corners and slabs to the left of the ridge, exit to the main ridge. 85 m, 70–85°, 6.

R34 — Along the ridge on foot to the summit. 15 m, 40°, 3.

Zamin-Karor 1st West 4303 m ![img-73.jpeg]({"width":210