Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a new 6B category route to the Odessa peak via the right part of the north-western wall in the Karavshin gorge on the Turkestan ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alay; Turkestan Range; Karavshin gorge 5.4.3
  2. Peak Odessa; via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent
  3. Assessed at 6B
  4. Rock climbing route
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Route length 1235 m; wall section 1080 m Length of 6th category sections 815 m; 5th category 210 m Average steepness 67°, wall section 75°
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Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the Ovcharenko Route, category 6A, in the Pamir-Alay range.

2021 World Mountain Championship, High-Altitude Technical Climbing Class Report of the National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall, Ovcharenko route (1988), 6A category.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region, gorge: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge. Section number according to the classification table of climbing routes № 5.4.3 (according to the FAR classifier).
  2. Name of the peak, route name: Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall (Ovcharenko route, № 5.4.3.24d according to the FAR classifier).
  3. Category: 6A
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 900 m)
    Route length: 1200 m
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Traverse of peaks 4810 m, 4507 m, 4521 m, 4000 m, and 3800 m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B.

I. Traverse Class. 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. 3. Traverse of peaks: 4810 m (ascent via the left part of the NW wall, first ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff.) — 4507 m (1000th anniversary of Baptism of Rus) — 4521 m (Kotin Peak) — 4000 m (Dukhtarak Peak) — 3800 m (Dukhtarcha Peak). 4. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff. 5. Average height of peaks on the traverse — 4320 m. Average height of cols between peaks on the traverse — 4000 m. Traverse length — approximately 8500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff., not including rappelling — 2400 m. Rappelling down walls with 5–6 cat. diff. — 2240 m. 6. Pitons driven:

RockBoltsNutsSkyhook holes
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First ascent of the northern spur of the Turkestan Range, Peak 4810, via the left part of the Northwest Wall, cat.6B難度.

I. Technical grade. 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. 3. Peak 4810 m, via the left part of the North-West wall. 4. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 1260 m, length — 1760 m. 6. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 1460 m. Average slope of the route — 66° Average slope of the wall part of the route — 73° 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | nut | sky-hook holes |

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Description of a category II route to the 4810 peak in the **Pamir-Alay** range, climbed by Leningrad mountaineers in 1988.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — technical
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su gorge
  3. p.4810(c) via the buttress 10.3. of the wall
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty
  5. Height difference 700 m, length 910 m Length of sections of 5–6 category of difficulty — 390 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
  6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 29, bolt — 4, chocks — 63
  7. Team's travel hours — 16.5; days — 2
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Description of the route of 6B category of complexity to Peak 4810 m via the right edge of the NW wall in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range.

Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge
  3. Peak 4810 m, along the right edge of the NW wall
  4. 6A category of difficulty
  5. Elevation gain: 950 m. Length: 1080 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 820 m. Average steepness of the route: 70°. Average steepness of the wall section: 80°.
  6. Number of pitons driven: Rock: 47/28
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Climbing passport for Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, technically challenging second ascent of the northwestern slope.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 4810 from the northwest.
  4. Category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1270 m, route length — 1870 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 370 m. Average steepness of the route — 46°. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4040–4490), including 6 category difficulty — 80° (4310–4390).
  6. Pitons driven: rock — 29+5x/5, ice — 10/0, bolt — 4x/8, chocks — 81/8.
  7. Climbing hours — 28, days — 3.
  8. Overnights — on lying platforms.
  9. Leader — Vedernikov Vladislav Valentinovich, Master of Sports. Participant — Potankin Igor Vadimovich, Candidate for Master of Sports.
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### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4810 via the North Face in the Turkestan Range Category 6A, climbed in 1992 by a team led by Kotelnikov A.I.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin river basin.
  3. P. 4810 — via N wall.
  4. 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: | | total | wall section | | :--------------- | :----- | :----------- | | length | 1095 m | 815 m | | average steepness| 62° | 69° |
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Description of a Category 5B route to Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range, climbed in 1987 by the Youth Sports Organization team of the "Trud" Sports Society.

№ 582 p. 20 26.01.88

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge. 3. Peak 4810 m from the northwest. 4. Third ascent, 5B category of complexity. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1550–1650 m, length of 5th category sections — 660 m, 6th category — 260 m,

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Report on the ascent of the RS "Avangard" team to Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range, describing tactical actions and route sections.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of alpinism development in Odessa PEAK 4810 (ODESSAN ALPINISTS), TURKESTAN RANGE FROM NORTH-WEST REPORT ON THE ASCENT BY RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, A/C "ODESSA" 1580 m, 2000 m, (Y–Yl) 980, 53°, 68/3 cm, 2/1 m, 83/3 cm, 20.49, 26 cm 8-10/7-86 Team Leader Sитник M.A. Coach Горбенко M.M. Старицкий P.S. — MS Серенков P.S. — MS Тодоров V.S. — CMS

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