Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay; Turkestan Range; Karavshin gorge 5.4.3
2. Peak Odessa; via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent
3. Assessed at 6B
4. Rock climbing route
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Route length 1235 m; wall section 1080 m Length of 6th category sections 815 m; 5th category 210 m Average steepness 67°, wall section 75°
6. Equipment used on the route (denominator for ITO): pitons 183/132; nuts 161/98; skyhooks 93; bolted pitons (all fixed) 16/8
7. Climbing hours 67 h, 7 days
8. Team leader Lavrienenko Alexander, MS participants: Perevalov Maxim, MS; Tsushko Taras, MS
9. Coach Gorbienko M. M., ZMS; ZTU.
10. Approach to the route: August 5, 2011 8:00 AM summit reached on August 11, 2011 3:30 PM, return to Base Camp August 12, 2011 6:00 PM
11. Organization — a/c "Odessa", Olessa

UIAA Route Diagram

Route Description by Sections

• R0–R1 Easy and moderate rock climbing, some icy sections, reach a ledge at the base of an internal corner. 70 m II–III
• R1–R2 Climb the internal corner for 20 m, then move right via a crack. Wet, icy in the morning. Belay station under an overhang. 45 m VI A2
• R2–R3 Climb right and up through a cleft, then via a system of internal corners. "Buzzing" blocks, protection not always reliable. 40 m VI A3
• R3–R4 Climb an internal corner for 15 m, then left via a flake to a small ledge. 30 m VI A2
• R4–R5 Climb up and right through a crack, moving alongside a large corner-couloir. Belay station on a small ledge. 40 m VI A1
• R5–R6 Climb left and up, enter a corner, climb it for 10 m, and exit onto the left side of the corner. Rockfall hazard, ice at the corner. Continue left and up to a belay station on a small ledge. 50 m VI A2
• R6–R7 Climb a cleft to a belay station at the base of an internal corner. 50 m V+
• R7–R8 Climb the internal corner, sections overhanging, many "buzzing" placements. 40 m VI A3
• R8–R9 Climb the internal corner under an overhang, through the overhang, and then via a slab left and up. 40 m VI A3
• R9–R10 Climb a slab with intermittent cracks up and right. 50 m VI A3
• R10–R11 From the belay station, climb up via a thin crack, using skyhooks in places, poor relief. 40 m VI A3
• R11–R12 Climb a slab into a small internal corner, then via a system of cracks to a belay station before a series of small overhangs. 45 m VI A2
• R12–R13 Climb up and right, then up through a series of short, blind cracks. 45 m VI A2
• R13–R14 From the belay station, climb up and right via "patches," then up through cracks. 50 m VI A2
• R14–R15 Climb, trending right, through blind cracks, using skyhooks. Belay station before an overhang. 50 m VI A3
• R15–R16 Traverse a stepped overhang to reach an inclined ledge. 30 m VI A3
• R16–R17 From the left part of the ledge, climb up and right via flakes to a more gentle slope, then continue up and right through a wet streak (ice) into an internal corner. Belay station on a small ledge. 50 m VI A2
• R17–R18 Climb up through blind cracks to the base of an internal corner. Belay station on a small ledge. 25 m VI A2
• R18–R19 Climb the corner, which is filled with ice and has water flowing; many jammed "live" rocks. Climb the right wall of the corner, then traverse a "plug," and through an overhanging left wall of the corner to a slab with a good crack; belay station on a small ledge. 45 m VI A2
• R19–R20 Climb up through a crack, then up and right through an internal corner to a small ledge. 50 m VI A1
• R20–R21 Climb up through internal corners to an inclined ledge (loose rocks!). 60 m V
• R21–R22 Climb up through an internal corner for 15 m, then traverse into the right corner, climb it through a small overhang to a small ledge. 50 m VI A2
• R22–R23 Climb up through a system of internal corners and cracks to a more gentle slope, then via an internal corner to a ledge. 60 m V+
• R23–R24 From the ledge, climb left and up through an internal corner with ice, then up through a crack. 40 m V
• R24–R25 Climb up through an internal corner, which has ice. Reach a gentle pre-summit ridge. 60 m IV
• R25–R26 Climb easy, gentle rock to the summit. 80 m II

100 cm 2000 R0

R14–R15

R0–R?

• R22
• R23
• R24