Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 4810 from the northwest.
  4. Category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1270 m, route length — 1870 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 370 m. Average steepness of the route — 46°. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4040–4490), including 6 category difficulty — 80° (4310–4390).
  6. Pitons driven: rock — 29+5x/5, ice — 10/0, bolt — 4x/8, chocks — 81/8.
  7. Climbing hours — 28, days — 3.
  8. Overnights — on lying platforms.
  9. Leader — Vedernikov Vladislav Valentinovich, Master of Sports. Participant — Potankin Igor Vadimovich, Candidate for Master of Sports.
  10. Coach — Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich, Master of Sports of International Class.
  11. Departure to the route — June 30, 1987, summit — July 2, 1987, return — July 3, 1987.
  12. Organization — LOS DFFC, Leningrad.

img-0.jpeg Peak 4810 from the northwest. Δ — overnights and their elevations. — Path of the "Avangard" team (Odessa) 1986, repeated by the LOS DFFC group.

Photo August 8, 1987, "Minitar-I" lens, focal length 32 mm, distance to object ≈ 1.5 km. Route diagram in M 1:2000 symbols (1 mm = 2 m) in height. img-1.jpeg

1000 m covered in a day, climbing hours — 10.

Rock PitonsChockstonesBolt PitonsIce PitonsSection Length, mSection Steepness, degreesDifficulty CategorySection Numbers
3812040411
111545410
31255019
2/172306518
31405047
34/2208016
403035
543604514

390 m covered in a day, 80 m processed, climbing hours — 10.

Rock PitonsChockstonesBolt PitonsIce PitonsSection Length, mSection Steepness, degreesDifficulty CategorySection Numbers
3/210/618060318
2612040417
2/244050116
img-2.jpeg
1+3x6806015
img-3.jpeg
144x8080114
img-4.jpeg
1+2x24065413
img-5.jpeg
24306012
img-6.jpeg

Total distance covered on the route — 1870 m, climbing hours — 28. 480 m covered in a day, including 80 m processed the day before. Climbing hours — 8.

Rock PitonsChockstonesBolt PitonsIce PitonsSection Length, mSection Steepness, degreesDifficulty CategorySection Numbers
61828030–319

img-7.jpeg img-8.jpeg img-9.jpeg img-10.jpeg

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