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MT POLITEKHNIK, 4B, 2ND LEFT BUTTRESS OF NORTHWEST FACE (V. DARUGA ROUTE, 79)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: height difference – 700 m;

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

v. Polytechnik, 4B, left buttress of the Northwest wall (B. Borisov's route, 78)

Climbing Passport

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Polytechnik (4400 m), via the North ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 700 m;

v. Politekhnik, 3B, via North Ridge (V. Vydrik route, 71)

Ascent Record

Ascent class: rock Region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route description:

• elevation gain — 700 m; © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin» © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin»

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
2. v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
3. First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
6. Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.

Report

on the ascent made by the team of a/c "Odessa" to the summit of Parandas via the right part of the North face — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Zeravshan range. Fan Mountains. March 5, 1988
2. Mt. Parandas 4250 m
3. First ascent via the right part of N face 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 850 m Route length: 1370 m. Section lengths:

Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Shan mountains, Zeravshan ridge
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall of Parandas shoulder
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 876 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 76° (3800–4380), including:

• 6 cat. diff. 86° (3960–4060)
• 85° (4080–4165)

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall "bastion".
4. 6A category difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1270 m, length — 1930 m. Length of 6A category difficulty sections — 256 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (p. Parandas) — 76.
6. Use of protection points: | rock pitons | bolt hangers | chocks | ice screws |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains — northern part
3. Peak: Zamok (via Arandas), V. Arkhipov's route
4. Climbing category: 6A
5. Elevation gain: 600 m, including 600 m of wall climbing Total route length: 850 m, including:
   • category 5 difficulty — 375 m
   • category 6 difficulty — 250 m Average route steepness — 75°