Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

Report

On the ascent of

p. Saryshakh, 5B, via the right part of the northwestern wall

Black Ice Club Team

Team Leader

Poliakov M. A.

Participants

Stepanov N. A.

1. Route classification: Technical.
2. Mountain region: Gissar-Alai, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area, ridge - Zarafshan Ridge, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Saryshah, 4650 m, via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category difficulty, 3rd ascent of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 950 m, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 800 m, average steepness - 76°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock - 72, including 7 for creating belay stations, chockstones - 45, including 10 for creating belay stations.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Fan Mountains. Zeravshan Range. 3. Sary-Shakh peak, 4650 m, via the right part of the North face (through the cleft) 4. 5B category of difficulty (repeat ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of 5th-6th category sections — 540 m, average steepness — 80 — 85° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 89 used to create intermediate belays — 17, bolted pitons — 2, used cams, stoppers — 46 7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours 8. Number of bivouacs — 2

Ascent Record (3rd Passage)

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°, section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------- | :-------- | :--------------- |

4. 5B cat. difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 600 m. Average steepness (wall part) — 70°.
6. Rock pitons hammered in: for belaying — 80, for creating ITO — 2
7. Number of travel hours — 14
8. Number of overnight stays — 1, satisfactory.
9. KSP group in the Fann Mountains consisting of: Mumdzhi Timur Memetovich — CMS, Ponomarev Valery Alekseevich — CMS
10. Team coach: Mumdzhi T.M.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — V. SARYSHKH, 4650 m, via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 650 m, wall section elevation gain — 375 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average slope of the entire route — 40°, average slope of the wall section — 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 48, for creating anchor points — 1. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics — 1, safe, convenient, on a rocky ridge.

Уuivarsi (37002) 2А cat. sl. from the north. From Kulision lakes at Bakhaz to Kulision plateau. bivouac on the way to the base of a clearly expressed ridge.

• The initial slope is not very steep, 15 m, gradient 30°.
• Further, according to the snow level, to the zone of rocky outcrops, moving through a couloir.
• The third section is a rocky slope 20 m, gradient 40°.
• Further, along the snow slope, the ascent becomes steeper and, moving with an ice axe, not particularly difficult.
• The final slope is steep, with an ice axe, not very difficult.
• From the top, a bay is visible, surrounded by surrounding shores. Descent from the top to the east along the glacier for 1.5 km and further down to Kulision lakes with basic precautions. The ascent takes 4–5 hours, descent — 1 hour.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
6. Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
7. Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
8. Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.

1

(1) 1111 Presvotoputochny via the north-eastern ridge 35 hrs. cat. 4045.