Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Slesova Peak via Pogorelova route, center of the North wall, 6B category of difficulty.

Pamir-Alay

  1. Type — rock.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
  3. Slesova peak via the center of the North face (Pogorelov's route).
  4. Category 6B.
  5. Height difference — 940 m. Length — 1065 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 79°.
  6. Number of pitons used: rock pitons, drilled holes for skyhooks | 69 | 1+45 * | 268 | 41 |
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Description of the passage of a category 6B route on the North face of Peak 4240 (Slesova) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su river gorge 3. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via North wall (Pogorelov's route) 4. 6B complexity category, third ascent 5. Height difference 810 m, length — 986 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 874 m, including 6 cat. diff. sections — 789 m. Average slope of the route — 71°. Average slope of the wall section — 81°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 128/48, chockstones 276/138, bolted 2/2+36

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First ascent of the Northwest Wall of Peak 4240 (Slesov), **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**, 6th cat. of difficulty, 986 m, 810 m height difference.

I. Class of Rock Climbing Ascent

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
  2. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via the North-West face.
  3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
  4. Height difference: 810 m, route length: 986 m. Section lengths:
  • R5–R6 — 874 m
  • R6 — 789 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 81° (3430–4210 m)
  1. Number of pitons used: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons |
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The route to Chimtarga peak via the south-western counterfort through the shoulder of Chimtarga peak, complexity category 4B.

11.1205a-4240 28.0793. 45­–­45 44

  • 62 39, 34, 37, 35, 32, 31, 30, 29, 28, 26, 27, 25, 241, 23
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Ascent via the SW wall of Peak Slesova (4240 m) in the Pamir-Alay range, cat. 6A, 1590 m, 1200 m elevation gain, 3 days, 35+ climbing hours.

  1. Rock climbing.
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
  3. Peak Slesova (4240 m) — via SW wall.
  4. 6A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1590 m, average steepness 61°, steepest parts 72°, length of sections
  • 5th category of difficulty 550 m
  • 6th category of difficulty 336 m
  1. Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | Ice pitons |
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A description of the climbing route with photographs of key sections, including an overall view and details of the route passage.

General view of the route on the right R3–R4 section R7–R8 section R8–R9 section, top view R9–R10 section R11–R13 sections R13–R14 section

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First ascent of the South summit of Serebryanaya стена 3850 m in the Karavshin valley via the East counterfort, cat. 4A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3.
  2. Peak — Silver Wall, South Summit 3850 m, via East Buttress
  3. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route type — rock climbing
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 75 m, 4th category of difficulty — 370 m
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Report on the ascent via route "5B" through the SE wall gullies of Serebryanaya Stena peak (4050 m) in the Kara-Shibe gorge by a team from the Tomsk region.

Peak Serebryanaya стена

4050 m

Report

Tomsk Region (TFA) team ascent report on the route to Peak Serebryanaya стена via the chimneys of the SE wall "5B" (rocky). Tomsk – 2011

Participants

  • Temerev I.M.
  • Smaikina S.V.
  • Kovaleva A.V.

Ascent Passport

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Report on the passage of category 1B route to the peak Serebryanaya Stena (Silver Wall) via the western slope in the Karavshin gorge.

Peak Serebryanaya стена

4050 m.

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the ascent to Peak Serebryanaya стена via the western slope. "1B", (sc)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Kopytov F.A. Nadymova A.I., Temereva E.O., Terekhin V.A.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION:

  1. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge (Kara-Su river valley), 5.4.3.
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Description of a technically challenging Category 6B route to the 4,490 m "Ptitsa" peak in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay, in 1989.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing region — Pamir-Altai, Turkestan Range.
  3. p. 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central counterfort of the N wall.
  4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length — 5–6 category of difficulty — 630 m, out of which 6 category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section 77° (3760–4390).
  6. Pitons hammered in:
    • rock: 131, out of which 94 removed
    • bolt: 8, out of which 4 removed
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