Pamir-Alay
Route Description: С стене
Report on the ascent made by the national team via the 6A cat. sl. route up the Northwest wall of Pik Asan in Pamir-Alay.
Report of the team from the Republic of Bashkortostan and Novosibirsk region on the ascent of Pik Asan via the Northwest wall, Pogorelov's route, 6A category of difficulty.
Climbing Passport
- Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge, Turkestan range
- Name of the peak, route name: Asan via the left part of the western wall (Pogorelov's route)
- Category of difficulty: 6A
- Route type: rock climbing
- Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 670 m) Route length: 1270 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 78°
- Equipment used on the route:
- anchor pitons — 80 pieces
Report on the ascent to the summit of Aksu N. (5217 m) via the North wall by L. Troshchinenko's route, category 6A.
Climbing Passport
- High-altitude technical climb
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak valley
- Ak-Su (5217 m) via the North Face, L. Troshchinenko route.
- 6A category of difficulty
- Height difference 1590 m, length 2490 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 885 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty – 435 m, average steepness of the route – 60°, average steepness of the main part of the route – 74°.
Route Description: С стене
Climbing certificate for the ascent of Pik Ak-su Si via the North wall, category 6B in the Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Laylyak valley.
- Peak AkSu S., via the North face.
- 6A
- Elevation gain 1400 meters, length 1685 meters, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 850 meters, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. – 470 meters, average route slope – 60°, average slope of the main part of the route – 74°.
- Pitons driven:
| | rock pitons | chocks | ice pitons | bolts | |:---|:---|:---|:---|:---|
Route Description: С стене
Report on the passage of a category 6B climbing route to the summit of AKSYU via the North Face, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
PASSPORT
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laiyak gorge area
- Peak Ak-su via N wall
- Category 6B (presumably 4th ascent)
- Height difference: 1447 m, length: 2149 m, including bastion: 1040 m and 1297 m respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 539 m. 6th category difficulty: 389 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 70°, bastion is 79°.
Route Description: С стене
Report on the ascent to the summit of Ak-su (5217 m) via the north wall, made by a team of instructors from AUSB "Alay" in 1983.
14
5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988
Class of technical ascents
Report
Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay”
Team Leader
Team Coach
Route Description: С стене
Report on the passage of a 6A category route to the summit of Ak-su (5217 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
- Technical category
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
- Aksu peak (C)
- Category of difficulty — 6A, proposed 6B
- Elevation gain — 1460 m, length — 2200 m, including 1430 m on the bastion.
- Average steepness of the bastion — 76°
Average steepness of the route — 68° - Pitons driven:
rock nuts bolt reused bolt skyhook holes ice
Route Description: С стене
A technical ascent description of 6A category complexity to the summit of Ak-Su (N.) via the north wall, following L. Troshchinenko's route in the Pamir-Alay range.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Lyaylyak gorge.
- Peak, route: p. Aksu (N) via N wall (L. Troshchinenko route).
- Category of difficulty — 6A
- Height difference: — 1640 m — of which the wall part proper — 1100 m — total route length — 2149 m — length of the wall part — 1384 m
Route Description: С стене
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Ak-Su North (5217 m) via the North wall, 6th category of difficulty, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, 1986.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Peak — AkSu North (5217 m) via the North face
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6 (2nd ascent)
- Height difference — 1617 m
- of which:
- wall section — 750 m
- Length — 2195 m
- of which:
Route Description: С стене
Climbing passport for the peak Aksu North (5217) via the 6A category route "On the wall" on the north wall.
Ascent Passport
- Region of ascent: PAMIR-ALAI, Turkestan Ridge, Laylyak gorge area
- Name of the peak: Aksu North (5217)
- Name of the route: "To the wall" (L. Troshchinenko)
- Category: 6A
- Nature of the route: combined
- Height difference: 1517 m Route length: 1895 m Length of sections:
- category V — 810 m
Route Description: С стене
Description of the first ascent of the direttissima of the bastion on the northern wall of Peak Ak-su (5217 m) with a complexity category of 6B.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, AkSu valley.
- Peak AkSu (C), 5217 m, via the direttissima of the northern wall bastion.
- Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Elevation gain – 1450 m, length – 1945 m, including 1030 m and 1140 m for the bastion respectively. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 350 m, 6th category – 905 m, including 200 m and 850 m on the bastion respectively. Average steepness of the main part of the route – the bastion – 76°.
- Pitons hammered: rock, chocks, bolts, ice | 125 | 250 | 87 | 10 |