Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent made by the national team via the 6A cat. sl. route up the Northwest wall of Pik Asan in Pamir-Alay.

Report of the team from the Republic of Bashkortostan and Novosibirsk region on the ascent of Pik Asan via the Northwest wall, Pogorelov's route, 6A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

  1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge, Turkestan range
  2. Name of the peak, route name: Asan via the left part of the western wall (Pogorelov's route)
  3. Category of difficulty: 6A
  4. Route type: rock climbing
  5. Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 670 m) Route length: 1270 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 78°
  6. Equipment used on the route:
    • anchor pitons — 80 pieces
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Aksu N. (5217 m) via the North wall by L. Troshchinenko's route, category 6A.

Climbing Passport

  1. High-altitude technical climb
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak valley
  3. Ak-Su (5217 m) via the North Face, L. Troshchinenko route.
  4. 6A category of difficulty
  5. Height difference 1590 m, length 2490 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 885 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty – 435 m, average steepness of the route – 60°, average steepness of the main part of the route – 74°.
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Climbing certificate for the ascent of Pik Ak-su Si via the North wall, category 6B in the Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak valley.
  3. Peak AkSu S., via the North face.
  4. 6A
  5. Elevation gain 1400 meters, length 1685 meters, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 850 meters, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. – 470 meters, average route slope – 60°, average slope of the main part of the route – 74°.
  6. Pitons driven: | | rock pitons | chocks | ice pitons | bolts | |:---|:---|:---|:---|:---|
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Report on the passage of a category 6B climbing route to the summit of AKSYU via the North Face, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical class
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laiyak gorge area
  3. Peak Ak-su via N wall
  4. Category 6B (presumably 4th ascent)
  5. Height difference: 1447 m, length: 2149 m, including bastion: 1040 m and 1297 m respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 539 m. 6th category difficulty: 389 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 70°, bastion is 79°.
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Ak-su (5217 m) via the north wall, made by a team of instructors from AUSB "Alay" in 1983.

14 5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988 Class of technical ascents

Report

Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay” Team Leader
Team Coach

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Report on the passage of a 6A category route to the summit of Ak-su (5217 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.

  1. Technical category
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
  3. Aksu peak (C)
  4. Category of difficulty — 6A, proposed 6B
  5. Elevation gain — 1460 m, length — 2200 m, including 1430 m on the bastion.
  6. Average steepness of the bastion — 76°
    Average steepness of the route — 68°
  7. Pitons driven:
    rocknutsboltreused boltskyhook holesice
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A technical ascent description of 6A category complexity to the summit of Ak-Su (N.) via the north wall, following L. Troshchinenko's route in the Pamir-Alay range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Lyaylyak gorge.
  3. Peak, route: p. Aksu (N) via N wall (L. Troshchinenko route).
  4. Category of difficulty — 6A
  5. Height difference: — 1640 m — of which the wall part proper — 1100 m — total route length — 2149 m — length of the wall part — 1384 m
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Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Ak-Su North (5217 m) via the North wall, 6th category of difficulty, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, 1986.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak — AkSu North (5217 m) via the North face
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6 (2nd ascent)
  5. Height difference — 1617 m
    • of which:
      • wall section — 750 m
      • Length — 2195 m
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Climbing passport for the peak Aksu North (5217) via the 6A category route "On the wall" on the north wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region of ascent: PAMIR-ALAI, Turkestan Ridge, Laylyak gorge area
  2. Name of the peak: Aksu North (5217)
  3. Name of the route: "To the wall" (L. Troshchinenko)
  4. Category: 6A
  5. Nature of the route: combined
  6. Height difference: 1517 m Route length: 1895 m Length of sections:
  • category V — 810 m
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Description of the first ascent of the direttissima of the bastion on the northern wall of Peak Ak-su (5217 m) with a complexity category of 6B.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, AkSu valley.
  3. Peak AkSu (C), 5217 m, via the direttissima of the northern wall bastion.
  4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain – 1450 m, length – 1945 m, including 1030 m and 1140 m for the bastion respectively. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 350 m, 6th category – 905 m, including 200 m and 850 m on the bastion respectively. Average steepness of the main part of the route – the bastion – 76°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks, bolts, ice | 125 | 250 | 87 | 10 |
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