Ascent Passport

1. Class: Technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent object: peak AkSu Northern
4. Complexity category: 6B cat. (approximately), first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1200 m,
   • length of sections: 6 c.t. 900 m, 5 c.t. 400 m,
   • average steepness: 70 degrees.

AkSu (N), center of the North face, 6B cat. diff. by B.A. Khandzhapov

1.4.2. Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the summit of AkSu (N) via the center of the North face (Ruchkin'96) (3rd ascent)

August 2008 09.09.2008 Khandzhapov Bair

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
2. AkSu (N), 5217 m, center of the North face.
3. Proposed 6B cat. diff. (third ascent).
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 1517 m, wall section height difference — 1415 m;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. AkSu N. 5217 m, via the center of the N. face through the "nose" (P. Shabalin's route).
4. Complexity category — 6B, second ascent.
5. Height difference: — 1467 m. Route length — 1940 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 255 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness:

• main section of the route — 75.5°;
• entire route — 68°.

Peak Akksu (N.), 5217 m, center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988), Cat. 6B Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge. 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak gorge, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Akksu (N.) 5217 m via center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988)
4. Category 6B difficulty. 4th ascent.
5. Height difference — 1467 m. Distance — 1910 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness of the route (face) — 74°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Object — Ak-Su peak
4. Complexity category — 6B (Chaplygin's '88)
5. Elevation gain — 1500 m, length — 1930 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 455 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Cams | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 269 | 5 | 223 | 83 |

Report

• on the championship of alpine training and sports bases and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO of trade unions in mountaineering 1988
• on the peak Ak-Su Ser. (5217 m)
• on the center of the north wall, variant of Popov's route
• 2nd ascent
• team of ASB "Domбай"
• team coach - Grishchenko Valentin Anatolyevich
• team leader - Chaplynsky Igor Orestovich

Addresses

Ascent Log

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Turkestan Range, Laylak valley 3. Peak Aksu Severnaia, 5217 m, via the center of the north face. 4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1467 m; route length: 1718 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 6B — 618 m, 5B — 715 m. Average slope of the route: 73°. 6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws |

Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia Ulan-Ude 2013

Ascent Report

Team of the Republic of Buryatia to the summit of Ak-su 5217 m via the Moshnikov route on the North Face couloir, 6B, 1984.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, section number according to the classification table 5.4.2.
2. Summit "Ak-su (C)" 5217 m. Route via the couloir of the North wall, A. Moshnikov 1984.
3. Proposed complexity: 6B.
4. Nature of the route — mixed.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lailyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. Ak-Su (N), 5217 m, A. Antonova via the "cold corner".
4. Category of difficulty — 6A, 4th ascent.
5. Height difference: 1460 m. Route length — 2040 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1190 m. Average slope: of the route — 65°, of its wall section — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 76/41, chocks — 134/40, ice screws — 78/2, bolt pitons — 17/6. Left on the route: cams — 1, rock pitons — 6.

Ak-su (N) 5217 m — cold angle of northern wall (first ascent), Pamir-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Lyaylyak gorge 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Lyaylyak gorge
3. Peak Ak-su (N) 5217 m — cold angle of N wall (first ascent)
4. Category of difficulty — 6 (proposed)
5. Height difference — 1460 m. Length — 1840 m. Length of sections of 5–6 difficulty category — 1520 m. Average steepness of the route — 61° (3750–5217 m), wall — 67° (3750–4850 m)
6. Hooks left on the route: rock — 7