Pamir-Alay
Route Description: СВ ребру
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to the 3900 m peak via the North-East ridge, describing a Category 27 route and its key features.
Alpinist Camp
“Alay”
July 13, 1983 rock climbing category
27
REPORT
on the ascent to peak 3,900 m (Domashnyaya) via the north-eastern ridge by the team MGS DSO “Zenit” 660, 19-V/160, 50°, 9 pitons, 12 karabiners, 6 hours by the duo Gutsol A.F. — 1st sports category, Makhnovetskiy A.B. — 1st sports category. Coach — Kozlov D.E. — Master of Sports of the USSR.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Peak 3900 m in the **Pamiro-Alai** via the North-West Ridge, Category II difficulty, covered in 5 walking hours.
- Rock class.
- Pamir-Alay, Akh-Su gorge.
- Peak 3900 m via North-West edge.
- Second ascent of category 3A difficulty, approximately.
- Height difference 400 m, average steepness 40°, length 790 m.
- Pitons driven — 8 pcs.
- Climbing hours — 5.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Leader: Sytnyk D. N. — 1st sports category. Participants: Glushchenko A. A. — 1st sports category,
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks A. Blok and Aksu in the Pamir Mountains, 6B climbing category, first ascent in 1987 by a group led by Evgeny Titkin.
Passport
- Traverse class
- Alay Range, Ak-Su valley, Pamir
- Traverse peak A. Blok (East) — A. Blok (Main) — peak 4600 m — Ak-Su (North) — Ak-Su (Main)
- Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Length — 10,230 m Length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1040 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 61°, of which 6B category of difficulty — 85° (4600–4915)
- Pitons hammered: rock – 223, bolted – 0, chocks – 234, ice – 18. Additional: rock – 21, bolted – 0, chocks – 6, ice – 0.
- Team's walking hours — 103, days — 10
- Overnights — all overnights are bivouac, on the ridge
Route Description: СЗ стене и С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit A. Block via the western wall with a detailed analysis of the sections and accompanying photographs.
Passport
- Class of ascent — technical.
- Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — East A.Block, 5150 m, via northwestern wall and northern ridge, combined.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 830 m
- route length — 915 m
- wall section length — 590 m
- ridge section length — 325 m
Route Description: С В стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Vost. A. Blok (5150 m) via the northwest wall and north ridge, category III, completed by a team from the Irkutsk mountaineering club in 1988.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley.
- Mt. East A. Blok (5150 m), via northwestern wall and northern ridge.
- Category 5B, third ascent.
- Elevation gain 830 m. Average length 1008 m. Average slope 65°. Average wall slope 75°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories 315 m.
- Pitons used: rock: 86/20 bolted: –
Route Description: С В стене
SSummitMate### First Ascent of Elok Vostochny via the North-Eastern Wall in the Pamir-Alay, Ak-su Valley A detailed analysis of the tactics and technical actions employed by the team during the climb. The route is rated 6th category of difficulty.
I. Technical Category
- Technical category
- Pamiro-Alay, Ak-su valley
- Blok Vostochny peak via the North-Eastern wall
- Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference - 900 m, length - 1010 m. Length of 5-6B sections - 710 m. Length of 6B sections - 426 m. Average route steepness - 76°. Of which 6B (4280-4680 m) - 83°.
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice screws | Rock chocks | Ice chocks | Ice pitons |
Route Description: кф. В стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to the summit of A. Blok via the buttress of the East wall in 2005.
Report.
On the ascent to the summit A. Blok (Eastern) 5150 m via the counterfort of the Eastern wall by the team 12 of the Sports Club Arysy SABO.
Team coach
E. T. Ilyinsky.
Team captain
2005 year 10. A-pix. 6–8/2–86. Lciozach 10.12. Su deca 0.24. Khanetstob 3.44.
845, 1096,
4 E / 401 41 / 95 86 / 12 60 / 82 а х а, 13 / 11 · 1 / 2, 1 / 2 su А, 20 рас, 3
пу
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent via the centre of the North face of Pik Bloka (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) 6A category of difficulty.
WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP
TECHNICAL CLASS
REPORT
On the ascent of the team A/K "Odessa" to Pik Bloka
Via the North face, first ascent. Odessa, 2013
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay. Turkestan range. Laylyak valley
- Pik Bloka, 5239 m via the center of the North face
- Proposed grade — 6A, first ascent
Route Description: столбу С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the "Rereading the Classics" route, category 6A, on the "pillar" of the North Face of Pik Block (Pamir-Alay) in 2019.
MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2019. High-Altitude Technical Class
REPORT
Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast On the first ascent of the route "Re-reading the Classics" via the "pillar" on the Northern wall, presumed 6A category. Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk 2019
ASCENT PASSPORT
Region — Pamir-Alay. Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley Peak — Peak Bлока 5239 m via the "pillar" on the Northern wall
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent made by the Krasnoyarsk krai team to **Peak Bloka** (5239 m) via the west face, first ascent of a variation to the Valiev route, category 6A.
MINISTRY OF SPORT AND TOURISM OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY
TERRITORIAL ALPINISM FEDERATION
RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP
2010
Class of First Ascents
REPORT
On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Territory team to Peak Bлока 5239 m via the west wall. First ascent (variant of the Valiev route) 6A category. Krasnoyarsk 2010