2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984.

Ascent to Sairam Peak

• Group's route
• Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru

Crux of the route

North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face.
3. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent.
4. Route characteristic: rock.
5. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face.
3. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. sl. — 504 m.
• VI cat. sl. — 73 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - rock
2. Ascent area - range; Western Tian Shan, Ugam range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Sayramsky peak, 4238 m, via the western counterfort of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference - 730 m
   • length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 404 m
   • average steepness - 70°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating RTO

Ascent Logbook

I. Ascent category: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B
5. Route characteristics:
height difference — 830 m
length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m
average steepness — 76°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors

I. Climbing type: rock, 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, 3. Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B, 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 910 m,
• length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m,
• average steepness — 68°,

6. Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class – combined 2. Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope 4. Expected difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m).
3. Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths:
   • 5th difficulty category – 290 m,
   • 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

Route Description to

to p. Pioneer via the Eastern ridge, approximately category 3A difficulty, completed on August 20, 1987. Departure from the base camp at 6:00 AM, travel time to the 1st lake is 1.5–2 hours. From the 1st lake:

• Bypass the northwestern ridge from the right along the scree slope, heading towards a large, wide scree couloir.
• When ascending the scree couloir, stick to its left side, close to the slabs.
• Here is the 1st control point — the beginning of the route. Further:
• Along the ridge for 40 m, simultaneous movement to the 1st gendarme.
• The gendarme is bypassed on the right via a steep, inclined ledge (400 m).