The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

2. Area of ascent, ridge — Talasskiy ridge — Panj Talasskiy ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m N - E ridge
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections R1–R5 category of difficulty, average steepness deg. — height difference 1060 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: R1 category of difficulty — 900 m, R3 category of difficulty — 400 m, R2 category of difficulty — 50 m
6. Pitons for belaying to create artificial anchor points: window-type — 4 pcs, dube-type — 2 pcs, ice screws — none

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then:

• ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks;
• descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus;
• from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region of ascent, ridge — 1–3 Tian-Shan Talassky ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m D — 3 ridge 4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I-5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 1850 m, length of sections: I category of difficulty — 1800 m II category of difficulty — 50 m

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

3. The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 1B
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none
7. Number of walking hours — 10
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

2. Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
6. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
   • Rock — 12
   • Ice — 5
   • Hook anchors —

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —