Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face

S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.

Passport

1. Class: winter
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
4. Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
5. Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.

Passport

I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:

Rock pitons	Bolt pitons	Nuts	Ice screws
178	5	86	48

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
4. 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
5. Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
6. Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea (4740 m) via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed category 6B (first ascent)
5. Height difference — 1040 m, length of the wall section — 920 m, including 5B — 506 m, 6B — 330 m, average steepness — 66°.
6. Pitons used: | rock | bolt | placed elem. | ice | | :--: | :--: | :----------: | :-: |

Class of Technical Ascensions

Report

on the first ascent in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains (Western Tien-Shan) of the north wall of the "Free Korea" peak (4740 m), entered in the USSR Alpine Championship in the 1975 season Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR (SKA KSAVO) July 1975

I. Popenko Yu.S.	CMS	captain
2. Belovol E.V.	CMS	deputy captain
3. Afanasyev V.M.	CMS	participant
4. Kuramshin R.M.	CMS	participant

ASCENT DOCUMENT 1576

1. Ascent type: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North face
4. Difficulty category: 6 (third ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1010 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 995 m; average steepness — 78°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 186; ice — 45; bolt — 2; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 12; ice — none; bolt — 7
7. Number of climbing hours: 32 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
2. Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:

• 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
• 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
3. Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the Center of the North Face
4. Difficulty category — 6A
5. Height difference — 740 m, length — 890 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 490 m, 6th diff. cat. — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part — 71°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 35/20
   • bolt — 18/13
   • chocks — 57/28

I. Technical class. 2. Kirghiz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, via North wall, 4740 m. 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Height difference: 795 m, length: 1047 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 582 m. Average steepness of the route: 66°. Average steepness of the wall section: 75°. 6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 66/7
• bolt: 18/10*

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

EAAA Championship (World Championship) in Alpinism 2019

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent

Report

Russian Federation National Team - 3rd place Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin route. 6A category of complexity.

Ascent Passport

Region – Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, 7.4. Peak – Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin 1969. 6A category of complexity. Route characteristic – combined.