USSR CHAMPIONS IN ALPINISM 1984 SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING CLASS
Report
REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF BAYTOR TO THE SUMMIT "20 YEARS OF KOMSOMOLETS OF KYRGYZSTAN" VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE NORTH FACE, 4700 m, TEAM "TRUD-1" (first ascent).
COACH AND TEAM MANAGER GRISHCHENKO V.I. SENIOR COACH KENSITSKY L.V. V. Boyko, S. Belinsky, V. Gurov, V. Dobresko, V. Kulyamin.
ADDRESSES: RS "Avangard" 252135, Kiev, Volodarskogo, 1, Chairman Klopov I.I. Phone 26-56-68.
Coach and team manager Grishchenko Viktor Ivanovich 252055, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, kv. 46, Phone 71-08-74.
The height of the summit was determined using a map. The lower altitude mark was determined using an altimeter.
Tactical Actions of the Team
Throughout the entire ascent, the tactical plan was fully executed. The time schedule was maintained with an accuracy of 30 minutes. Ropes and lead climbers were changed every 3-5 ropes. On sections R5, R8, R10, the lead climbers used a pair of "Ice-fis". On the remaining sections, the lead climbers used "Ice-fis" + ice axe.
All 6 team members worked at the front, which allowed maintaining a high pace of movement throughout the ascent. All equipment was used to its fullest extent. The insurance reserve of rock pitons (5 pieces) was not needed during the ascent and descent.
The planned rest and tea break in the middle of the ascent (30 minutes) allowed the team to restore their working capacity.
Pitons of increased diameter and length were used for loose or wet ice. Communication was carried out according to schedule and worked flawlessly.
Additional communication was established at the request of the team at 18:00 (expected time of reaching the summit) to transmit information about the ascent.
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS. SCALE 1:2000.
Description of the Route by Sections
R0–R1. Ice board. Beginning from the bergschrund. R1–R2. Steep ice board (Type "ice crust"). R2–R3. Traverse left along the ice board. R3–R4. Ice gullies between rock outcrops. R4–R5. Inner corner filled with ice. R5–R6. Ice board. R6–R7. Ice board with rock outcrops. R7–R8. Inner corner filled with ice. R8–R9. Ice wall. R9–R10. Ice gully. R10–R11. Ice board (wall). R11–R12. Ice board - direct exit to the summit.
Technical photograph of the route.
Location of the shot on map-scheme #1. Kiev-15, Jupiter. 11 f=135.
