REPORT on the First Ascent of the North Face (Center) of Dure Peak

HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW OF THE REGION

Dure Peak is located in the western part of the Kungey-Alatau ridge, which borders the Issyk-Kul lake depression from the north, starting from the Boemskoe gorge in the west and stretching in a nearly latitudinal direction. The ridge is approximately 275 km long and 31 km wide in its highest part. The ridge consists of two parts - eastern and western. Spurs extend from the Kungey-Alatau watershed ridge, mainly in the northern and southern directions, dividing the lateral river valleys. The most significant lateral spurs by height are:

• Chontal,
• Orto-Koisu,
• Karakorum, etc. Dure Peak is adjacent to the 1st western peak of the Chontal massif. The height of Dure Peak, according to the 1962 survey, is 4538 m. The first sufficiently detailed map of the Kungey-Alatau ridge was compiled by V. Gorbunov in 1937. In the same year, A. Ignatiev conquered the highest point of the ridge - Chontal, 4771 m high. In subsequent years, several ascents were made in the Chontal massif area, up to category 5B difficulty.

REPORT on the ascent of the team of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation to the peak - Spartakiad of Peoples of the USSR, Chok-Tal massif, via the southern slope from Choktal glacier. Magnitogorsk 2014 by Biserov V.P. Captain: Biserov Vladimir Pavlovich 455021, Magnitogorsk Leningradskaya 11-9 Tel.: (3519) 224-109

Report

On the ascent of the team of climbers of the Novosibirsk regional council of the SDSO "Burevestnik" to the peak Choktal (1st Eastern) via the North wall (approximately 5-6 cat. diff.)

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1. Characteristics of the region and the object of ascent.

The North wall of the 1st Eastern peak of the Choktal massif was chosen as the object of ascent by the team of the Novosibirsk "Burevestnik" for participation in the CS championship in 1965. The Choktal massif is located in the ridge of the North Tian-Shan, Kungay-Alatau, and is its most elevated part. The main peak of the massif - 1st Eastern - has a height of 4770 m. The northern slopes of the massif limit the wide valley of the Chon-Kemin river, along which a good road is laid, allowing easy access to the Choktal area. (The Chon-Kemin valley is a place of intensive sheep farming, which explains the presence of a good road and a large number of passing vehicles.) The nearest settlement - Novorossiika village - is located 35 km downstream. The journey from Frunze by car takes 12-15 hours. The area is characterized by unstable weather, which is apparently due to the proximity of Issyk-Kul. For example, during the ascent, out of 9 days:

70 Kungey Ala-Too Range Northern Tien Shan

Choktal Massif 2nd Eastern Peak

• 4771 m
• Choktal Massif
• Category 3B difficulty Description compiled by: Kholodniak A.M. General information about the climbing area: the Choktal massif is the highest point of the Kungey Ala-Too range in the Northern Tien Shan. Being far from major alpine camps, the area is rarely visited by climbers. The first attempts to explore this area date back to 1937, when three alpine instructors climbed the 2nd Western peak via the Eastern ridge. The second attempt was made in 1950, when a DSO "LOKOMOTIV" expedition led by Chekmarev visited the Choktal area. The participants of this expedition conquered:
• the 2nd Eastern peak via the Western ridge;

Kungey Ala-Too Range

Northern Tian Shan

Choktal Massif

Peak 2nd Zapadnaya (West) 4771 m. Route 4A cat. diff. From glacier 2 V. Dzhindyku and then along the E. ridge Description compiled by Kholodniak A.M.

To the Chairman of the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR

Comrade Smirnov Yu.N. From the participants of the traverse of the "Choktal" massif Comrades Buryak V.N., Aksenov V.A., Lengnik O.M.

Petition

In 1962, a sports group led by Naumenko I.M. completed a traverse of the "Choktal" massif, category 5B. The group followed the route with some deviations from the original route due to the lack of a complete and detailed description. In connection with this, the group made independent decisions on the choice of path in certain sections of the traverse. The group members removed notes from all the peaks of the massif and control tours. In the group's opinion, the deviations made from the classified route do not affect its category of difficulty. When reviewing the group's traverse, the commission (chaired by Rotataev N.S.) proposed that we compile a detailed description of the route taken and consider it at the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR. In this regard, the group petitions for the classification of the route taken and consideration of the traverse results. October 20, 1962.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Ayuter, 4382 m, via the Southeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 720 m, average steepness — 57°. Section lengths: III — 460 m, IV — 360 m, V — 40 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating belay stations: rock II, ice —, bolted —.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK AYUTER (4382 m) FROM PRIZYVNIC PASS. MOSCOW — 1969.

Description

of the ascent to peak Ayuter from Prizyvnik pass. Peak Ayuter is the main summit of the Ayuter gorge, located in the meridional spur of the Terskey Ala-Too ridge (see orographic scheme) and closes the Ayuter gorge. Peak Ayuter, like all the surrounding peaks, is composed of granites, which are enriched with feldspars in many places. Currently, there are three classified routes to peak Ayuter:

• 3B — along the north-eastern ridge;
• 4A — along the western edge;

ASCENT to the summit of PIK AYUTER via the eastern slope BelSoviet DSO "Zenit" Pik Ayuter via the eastern slope, category 5A complexity (first ascent)

ROUTE AND ASCENT DESCRIPTION

From the base camp on the right bank of the Ontor River, cross to the left bank and move downstream along the Karakol valley until the Ayutor River meets the Ontor River. Then follow the trail upstream along the Ayutor valley to the lake. The journey from the camp takes 3 hours. From the overnight stay near the lake, we move along the moraine to the glacier tongue (the moraine is on the right, orographically). It takes 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. We approach the glacier tongue from the right (orographically) side along the edge of the moraine and the glacier. Then, in teams, we move to the central part of the glacier (60 m, 55°, section R0–R1). Teams move independently; partners take turns leading, using front points of crampons and ice screw protection. 4 ice screws were used. Then we move up to the right, leaving the icefall on the left (200 m, 45–50°, section R1–R2). Protection is used. 8 ice screws were used. Teams move independently; partners take turns leading.

2. Area — Ayuter gorge, Central Tien Shan
3. Peak — Ayuter peak via the Eastern slope
4. Difficulty category — approximate
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of complex sections 600 m, average slope 60–65°
6. Pitons hammered in — for belay: rock — 15
   ice — 28
7. Number of climbing hours — 12
8. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification