WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges,
2. Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face
3. Cat. dif.: 5A
4. Route type: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 2500 m
   Route length: 5000 m

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1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol)
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m
6. Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10
7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours
8. Team composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections:
   • I — none,
   • II — none,
   • III — 15 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo.
3. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none.
7. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977.
8. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort.
9. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

I. Technical Category 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress 4. Proposed category: 5B 5. Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. 6. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

2. Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge
3. Summit — p. S. Ir­se­nina, 4240 m, As­hu­tor 114 pass
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/х­i-83.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |

TIAN-SHAN TERSKEI-ALATAU RANGE (Karakol gorge) S. Tyulenina Peak (4240 m) via Ashutor Pass The route is approximately Category 3B, combined Sitchikhin Yu.V., Ryabukhin A.G., Meshkova N.B., Karpenkov M.N., August 12, 1982 Photo 1. General view of the summit Photo 2. Fragment of the general view (bastion)