ASCENT DOCUMENT

Class: Rock Climbing

Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First Ascent Routes and proposed difficulty categories: Via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge: 3A combined Via Sofia's Shelf to the western ridge: 3B combined Height difference: 600 m Distance: 1000 m approx. (415 m wall) Average steepness of wall section: 47° 1200 m 2240 m (472 m wall section) 55° Protection: in the couloir 10×40 m via ice axes + 10 pitons and 13 chocks on the wall section of the ridge: 7 pitons 4 pitons + 25 chocks Climbing hours: 8.5 days: one – May 31, 1999 – one

Leader: LEVIN Mikh. Sem. (MS, 1st cat.) Signature: Participants: Bryantsev Vladisl. Vladim. (2nd sports category) SHUSTOV Konst. Vladim. (2nd sports category) Agafonov Anat. Kondr. (1st sports category) Muslimov Enver Izet. (3rd sports category) Coach: Levin Mikh. Sem. (MS, 1st cat.) x) from the "2320" bivouac under the NW ridge of v. SOLIDARITY and to the corresponding peak

Note: Both rope teams ascended to the 3090 pass together, then proceeded "in different directions" along their respective routes.

Photo # 2: View from the north to v. BARS-I, its western ridge; v. SOFIA; eastern and central peaks of ALTUS. Taken on June 4, 1999, while traversing the SW ridge of v. SOLIDARITY 3B category. The described routes via Sofia's Shelf:

northern buttress of BARS-I 3B category
2 variations of the right part of the northern wall of the western ridge of BARS-I 4A category
north-eastern ridge of SOFIA 3A category
western edge of SOFIA 3B category (SAME AS 4B category as the two neighboring routes!)
eastern ridge of ALTUS 3A category
western ridge of BARS-I 3B category
left northern ridge of ALTUS 2B category

See photo # 3. Since both described routes coincide on the initial sections (490 m in height), and then diverge in different directions along the same ridge, the beginning of the "Description" is common.

From the unnamed peak "4000", separating the Ugam four-thousanders ARSEN and AKTOR, a long, descending spur extends westward. The second peak along this spur, counting from the "unnamed peak", was named by the first ascents from KazClub in 1977 as "1st TOWER OF ARSENAL" or "BARS-I": from below, one can see the alternation of horizontal rock belts and snowy terraces. The northern buttress descending from the peak BARS-I is very attractive (3B category, M. Skrekhin–77); the western ridge is also interesting, with its left part having been repeatedly traversed as a continuation of the wall route by A. Denisenko–77 (4A category): starting left of v. SOFIA along the right part of the northern wall of the western ridge, groups made their way onto the ridge approximately 300 m east of the saddle. Aiming to traverse the western ridge of v. BARS-I completely, we chose a path from the north to reach the 3090 m pass, bypassing the north-western wall of SOFIA to the right at a lower elevation. This path coincides with the first few rope lengths of two 4B category routes on SOFIA (Sh. Rafikov–89, I. Rezaev–90). Now about ALTUS: the "long descending spur" mentioned at the beginning ends in a dissected massif – 3 peaks, 5 ridges, and numerous buttresses. It is the first notable landmark in the area that alpinists encounter, serving as an excellent panoramic viewpoint and training ground. The leader of the first ascent, V. N. Shataev, named it in 1974 after the Karaganda club "ALTUS" (Alpinists, Tourists, Speleologists). In addition to the right northern ridge 1B category ascended at that time (to the western peak 2932 m, then turning east towards the central peak 3200 m), the following routes were completed in subsequent years: 1977 – Eastern edge of the right northern ridge (3B category) 1996 – SW "barrier" (1B category) 1998 – Western ridge (2A category) 1998 – Left northern ridge (2B category) Routes #2 and #4 also lead initially to the western peak; #5 – to the central peak; #3 – to the eastern peak of Altus from the south. Prior to our ascent, there were no routes from the north to the eastern peak. x) henceforth, we do not aim to specify the actual orientation – NW, etc.

Photo # 3: View from the eastern ridge of ALTUS to the east (VIII–98). The profile of the northern buttress of BARS-I 3B category is clearly visible; the upper parts of the right section of the northern wall of BARS-I are hard to distinguish in the shade. However, it is very clear that the so-called "3B" route along the western edge of SOFIA is very challenging, despite being short (about 200 m), and is hardly less difficult than the neighboring routes on the north-western wall. These are classified as winter 4B!

Approaches

Page 5

Along the known path to the campsite – until the 1998 landslides, cars could pass through the ford to the confluence of the Sayram-su and Kergely rivers (1800 m). From the campsite (30 min.) along the trail, which crosses (slippery log!) to the right (orographically) bank of Sayram-su, and further through a large clearing (1830 m) bypassing the northern slopes of ALTUS. It is possible to bypass them along the left bank of Sayram-su, but it's easier to make one's way with backpacks by ascending the northern slopes of Altus and crossing them towards the horizontal treeless saddle of the left northern ridge of Altus. Descending to the water, the trail disappears 30–40 min. from the confluence of the Sayram-su tributaries (2300 m). Above the confluence, a bivouac is possible on the "Green Hill", from where 4A and 4B category routes on v. SOLIDARITY begin (2–2.5 hours from the confluence, 1800 m). Photo # 4: View from the "Green Hill" to the south (I–99). To the right – eastern slopes of the left northern ridge of ALTUS, to the left – the western edge of v. SOLIDARITY. Sofia's Shelf is obscured, but the 3090 m pass on the approaches is visible as soon as the ALTUS massif is bypassed. From here, it's 1 hour to the final moraine 2750 m, connecting the southern spurs of SOLIDARITY and the foot of SOFIA. The start of the route will become visible after ascending to the moraine 2750 m. The steep lower section of SOFIA's wall drops into a steep northern snow-ice couloir, and from a distance, it seems that the snow at the junction of the couloir and the limestone cliffs slightly eases, forming a "SLANTING SHELF". In reality, only the randkluft and the possibility of establishing reliable stations on the rocks help overcome this "double-sloping shelf" – and the path is unambiguous!

Photo # 5: Behind the moraine 2750 m, the route "hides". Photo # 6: View from the moraine 2750 m – reconnaissance of the "shelf" (V–99).

Route Description: ALTUS 3A category combined via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge

Page 6

From the moraine 2750 m, in the dark, under SOFIA's wall, and along it on crampons to the turn of the wall. Here, one has to shift from the safe zone to the right, towards the axis of the couloir, which is exposed to fire from two sides (fortunately, the acceleration is not significant). As one circumvents the edge, the snow becomes scarce, and by July, the upper part of the couloir will be icy and scree-covered. The slopes of the couloir's gorge gradually ease as one approaches the ridge. The path from the pass saddle to the west is blocked by a rock ascent with two vertical internal corners, separated by an inclined slab. Above the second internal corner – a narrow ridge to the eastern peak (it's made of dark rocks and is 10 m lower than the central one). After descending and a long traverse – a straightforward ascent to the control cairn on the central, "light" peak.

Descent Options:

a) to the north From the cairn along the ridge to the west, then down to the right into the so-called "large couloir". Descent through it is recommended:

at the beginning of the season
if one needs to return to the "Green Hill" bivouac

b) to the south One doesn't have to return to the 3090 m pass; instead, directly from the cairn, one can descend left-down onto the "live scree" of the wide couloir between the SW "barrier" of Altus and the buttress of the western ridge of BARS-I (this couloir is the path to the 3090 m pass from the south). Losing about 800 m in height and reaching the right bank of the Kop-Dzhailau river, one can descend along the trails to the confluence of the Kop-Dzhailau and Kergely rivers (2000 m), then to the confluence of Kergely and Sayram-su (1800 m).

Photo # 7: View of the ALTUS massif from the northeast (VIII–98). On the right part of the image – slopes of the "large couloir behind the left northern ridge"; on the left part – the 3090 m pass.

Route Sections Table (Altus 3A)

Section (R)	Angle (°)	Length (m)	Category of section	Description	Protection
R44–R1	0–35	250	1	Snow on scree	Right part of moraine is exposed to fire. Simultaneously.
R41–R2	40	80	2	Ascent through snow in couloir to SOFIA's wall	Safe only under the cliffs. Alternating via ice axes.
R42–R3	45	160	2	Ascent along the lower wall section	Very dense snow. Alternating: 5 pitons, 6 chocks, via ice axes.
R43–R4	50	120	3	Circumventing the western edge of the wall – KEY SECTION!	Last 40 m ice! Alternating: 5 pitons, 7 chocks, via ice axes.
R44–R5	30	120	2	Exit from the couloir's gorge onto the pass	Rocks may fall from 2 sides. Alternating via ice axes.
R45–R6	30	50	2	Ascent via ledges under the 1st inner corner!	Do not skip under the 2nd corner! Simultaneously.
R46–R7	80	25	4	1st inner corner. Holds are smooth, scarce.	Alternating: 4 pitons, ledges.
R47–R8	45	10	2	Monolithic slab. Traverse right under the 2nd corner.	Alternating via ledges.
R48–R9	80	20	4	2nd inner corner. Small holds, live rocks.	Alternating: 3 pitons, ledges.
R49–R10	40	40	2	Destroyed ascent of the eastern peak	Simultaneously.
R410–R11	20	120	1	Rocky-scree ridge. Descent 20 m and traverse.	Simultaneously.
R411–R12	30	30	1	Destroyed rocks. Summit ascent.	Simultaneously.

Route via the Western Ridge of BARS-I

Page 11

Photo # 16: and on photo # 17, the line of movement on the visible part of the route via the western ridge of BARS-I is not shown everywhere to avoid clutter (from v. SOLIDARITY, VIII–97).

Peak Designations:

DG — Druzhba Glavnaya
S — Slovakia
TT — Teke-tau
O — Obmanchivaya
G — Gnom
St — Studentov
A.S. — A. Snesareva
I.R. — I. Roshchina
K — Kergely
Ku — Kergely Uzlovaya

Photo # 17: View from the southern slopes of v. SOLIDARITY (VI–99).

Photo # 8: Visible part of the described 3A category route on ALTUS (from the southern buttress of the ridge of v. SOLIDARITY, VII–99). Photo # 9: Beginning of the path along the NW wall of v. SOFIA.

Page 9

Photo # 10: The second rope length along the foot of the wall ends in a randkluft.

Photo # 11: Third rope length.

Photo # 12: At the start of the fourth rope length.

Page 10

Photo # 13: Circumventing the western edge of the wall (end of the fifth rope length).

Photo # 14: Sixth rope length.

Photo # 15: Finally in the couloir's gorge!

Page 13

Photo # 18: Profile of the western spur of BEZYMYANKA (see page 4) from v. KOPTAU (VIII–98). Flags mark ALTUS (left) and BARS-I.

Other Designations:

S — Sayram
KT — Karatau
B — Bezymanka
G — Gnom
A — Ayutor
TT — Teketau
GS — ridge Syputchey
O — slopes Obmanchivoy

Photo # 19: Profile of the wall section of the route on BARS-I (view from the eastern ridge of Altus on May 31, 1999). Arrows indicate the participants of the first ascent.