Via the South­east slope, 1B cat. dif. A. Yatskovsky 1959

Combined Due to the route's considerable length, it's necessary to start from the Avachinsky refuge no later than 4 am. The approach to the southeast slope goes along the road and further along the stream bed, which flows from its snowfields in a wide couloir with three steep snow pitches. When ascending, it's better to keep to the left side. Having overcome the last pitch, head towards the upper part of the left ridge, where there is an exit to the ridge through a small couloir along the rocks. Then follow the ridge to the "gates," and enter through a steep (40°) ice-snow couloir, 150 m long. It's better to pass the "gates" along the left or right edge, depending on the condition of the section, using a rope handrail. Then exit to the pre-summit shoulder and follow it to the pre-summit rocks. Further, traverse a wide couloir under the rocks, heading east. After completing the traverse, ascend a steep pitch to the summit. The ascent time is 10-11 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In summer, the upper part of the ascent couloir is prone to rockfall.

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5. ASCENT TO KORYAKSKAYA SOPKA FROM THE SIDE OF ELIZOVSKAYA SUHOY RECHKI RIVER ALONG THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE — cat. dif. 2A (Figure 5) From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to overnight stay in the Elizovskaya Suhoy Rechki river valley to the volcanological station (see description of the ascent to Avachinsky volcano — cat. dif. 1B). From the volcanological station, with orientation to the large gendarme "Verblud" (gendarme with two peaks), exit to the southeast ridge departing from the pre-peak of Koryakskaya Sopka. Landmark — to the left, along the path, from the ridge a wide steep couloir, dangerous for passage due to rockfall and avalanches. Along the southeast ridge exit to the pre-summit group of rocks. The ridge is heavily destroyed, does not present technical difficulty. Time to cross the ridge from the volcanological station to the pre-peak is 7–8 hours. The ridge ends with a series of gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right along the path (alternate belay). From the pre-summit ridge, traverse the large gendarme to the right along the path onto a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45–50° and then to the left to a group of rocks, exit to the right side of the upper, narrowest part of the wide snow-ice couloir. Traverse of the couloir:

• steepness 45–50°

Description

Ascent to Koryaksky volcano via SSW ridge, category 2B General description of the summit and its location To the northwest of Avacha, separated from it by a saddle-shaped valley with Avachinsky Pass, rises the highest volcano of this group - Koryaksky. Its regular cone, long undisturbed by eruptions, is cut by deep barrancos. In some places on the surface of the cone, lava flows have solidified, sometimes reaching the foot, sometimes stopping halfway. The modern height of the volcano, equal to 3456 m, exceeds all other peaks in the southern part of Kamchatka. The summit of the volcano is slightly truncated to the west, and a modern crater of irregular shape, measuring 90 by 45 m, is located in its lowered part, from which a long lava flow descends to the southern wide barranco. In the northern part of the summit are the remains of an ancient crater, expanded by the action of a glacier to 500 m. The highest point of the volcano is located to the east, and a little lower and further east, on the edge of a cliff, a high lava obelisk rises. The summit and northern slopes near the summit are covered with ice. The depression of the ancient crater is filled with a powerful glacier, descending to the foot with two tongues. The length of the glacial tongues reaches 3-4 km, the width is up to 150 m. The thickness of the ice is measured in tens of meters. West of these tongues lie three more glaciers and many snowfields, filling all the barrancos of this part of the slope. To the south, the slopes of the volcano and the adjacent foothills are freed from snow cover early in the summer and become completely waterless by early August.

Koryakskaya sopka from northwest to southeast — category III (Figure 6)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky along the Yelizovo highway to the 31st kilometer, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and left from "5th Stroika" along the river through the bridge in the direction of the pass between Koryakskaya sopka and Arik along the forest roads of old logging sites, orienting towards a clearly visible spur leading to the summit, into the valley of a nameless dry river. On foot along the dry river to the lower part of the spur, which begins not far from the pass between Koryakskaya and Arik, at the forest boundary. Overnight stay. Nearby stream and firewood. Time taken to approach — 4–5 hours. From the dry river valley along the northwest spur (landmark — in the upper part of the spur, a plume of smoke from active fumaroles is constantly observed) in the direction of the summit. Rocks of medium difficulty, many gendarmes, most of which are bypassed. Overall steepness of the spur — 40–50°. In the middle part of the spur, three 5–6 m walls are traversed directly with piton belay. From the upper part of the spur, exit along a snow-ice slope (40–45°, 3 ropes) into a small depression near the pre-summit saw (southern edge of the old crater, filled with ice). Second overnight stay. Open areas, strong wind. From the second overnight stay along the pre-summit saw, exit onto the summit dome. Rocks are solid. The middle section of the saw is traversed on horseback (2 ropes). The saw gradually turns into a ridge, which drops off at the base of the summit dome with a 3–4 m wall (rappel). Exit to the summit 2–3 ropes — ice covered with a layer of fine volcanic scree (piton belay).

Description of the Ascent of Koryaksky Volcano

Via the South Ridge, Category 3B difficulty

1. General description of the summit and its location. Koryakskaya Sopka is part of the Avachinsky group of volcanoes, located slightly east of the general direction of the Eastern Ridge. Among the Avachinsky group of volcanoes, Koryakskaya Sopka is the highest. Its absolute height above sea level is 3456 m. Koryaksky volcano is considered active. It last erupted in 1957. Currently, its activity is characterized by intense fumarolic activity. Steam and gas escape from a fissure crater located on the western slope, 500 m below the summit. Koryakskaya Sopka is a summit of volcanic origin. Its slopes are composed of loose volcanic rocks: basalt, tuff, and diabase. The snowline rises to a height of 2 thousand meters by August and remains there until the beginning of September. On the northern slopes, snow persists at an altitude of 1300–1600 m. The NE, NW, and N slopes of the sopka are covered with glaciers, which are cut by rocky ridges in a radial direction. At an altitude of about 3000 m, the rocky ridges disappear under the ice armor. At this height, there is a continuous conical closed glacier. Between the ridges, the glacier flows down to a height of 1100–1400 m, giving rise to several tributaries of the Nalychovo River. The western and eastern wings of the glacier end at the top of the South slope in a steep cirque. On the southern side, the foothills represent a terrain heavily dissected by ravines. The ravines run in the directions:

• from north to southeast;
• from north to south and southwest.

Ascent to Koryaksky volcano (3456 m) via the eastern ridge

Koryaksky volcano is the highest of the Koryak volcanic group. For a description of the summit of Koryaksky volcano, see the ascent via the false ridge. From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, take the Elizovo highway to the 30 km mark, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and from there, fording the Mutnaya River along the Sukhaya Rechka to the volcanologists' station; the journey can be made by car. Base camp is at an altitude of 900 m. From here, the approach to the route begins. From the station, move in the direction of Avachinsky Pass, leaving the characteristic "Camel" rocks to the right. From here, ascend the ridge, which is wide and heavily destroyed, to the characteristic reddish rocks (R3–R4) (section R8.04). Then, along the central axis, cross two couloirs (loose rocks!), the ridge between them is rocky, with easy climbing. There are snow patches in some places, and exit onto the eastern ridge (section R2). Move up along the ridge (easy climbing), occasionally bypassing 3–4 m gendarmes on the right, to a rocky massif on the right (R3–R4). There is a convenient platform at this location, and an overnight stay is possible. Rope up and continue moving with alternating belays. The rocks are moderately difficult, the ridge is well-defined, and the slope is 40–45° (section R3). In the upper part of the ridge, a 2-meter cylindrical gendarme stands out (R24). There is a cairn on it (see point A). From the gendarme, ascend a snowy firn slope with a slope of 40–45°. Overnight stay in a cave. Along a steep snowy slope — 45–50° — exit onto the pre-summit ridge and, bypassing a huge gendarme on the right, reach the summit. Cornices are possible on the pre-summit ridge; bypass them on the right (R1, R5, R4). Descent is via route 2A.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO KORYAKSKY VOLCANO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B Category 3A (voice)

1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE PEAK AND ITS LOCATION See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge, category 3B.
2. TRANSITION TO THE STARTING POINT OF THE ASCENT See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge. The dry riverbed is blocked in its upper reaches by an elevation overgrown with dense alder bushes. Only near the left bank, the river flowing from the Avachinsky glacier has carved a deep, narrow, solid bed. The river is turbulent and very muddy. The road continues along the right bank of the dry riverbed through thickets of alder bushes to the volcanological station. Practically, this road can be traversed at the end of July to October. The gullies filled with snow pose a serious obstacle for ordinary vehicles during May-July. If the vehicle cannot pass, further movement is on foot. The best passage is closer to the left bank of the dry riverbed through sparse alder bushes. The walking time to the volcanological station is 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.

I request that changes be made to the All-Union classification table for mountain routes:

• Kozelskaya sopka, traverse from northwest to southeast with ascent to the "tooth" of Kozelskaya via the northwest wall — Category 3A difficulty. Effective January 1, 1975, this route is to be classified as Category 2B.
• Koryaksky volcano, ascent via the northeast ridge — Category 3A difficulty. Effective January 1, 1975, in the winter period, the difficulty of this route is to be considered half a category higher, i.e., Category 3B, for the period from November 1 to May 31. Rationale: Resolution of the Presidium of the Kamchatka Regional Federation of Alpinism dated December 24, 1975, Protocol No. 2, Item 1. Appendices:

1. Memorandum from the Route Classification Commission.
2. Description of the route to Kozelskaya sopka, traverse from northwest to southeast, Category 3A.
3. a) Description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the northeast ridge, Category 3A (summer conditions).

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Vachkazhtsy (1509 m) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team of the Kamchatka Alpine and Climbing Federation for the period from June 13, 2008 to June 13, 2008 2021

I. Ascent Passport

№№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Vasilenko Anatoly Borisovich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full names, sports ranks of the participants	Ivanov Georgy, 3rd sports rank, Mayakovskaya Natalia, 3rd sports rank, Zenkova Yulia, 3rd sports rank, Pasyukova Raisa, 3rd sports rank, Sharova Lyubov, 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Vasilenko Anatoly Borisovich
1.4	Organization	Kamchatka Alpine and Climbing Federation

Report

On the first ascent to the summit

VACHKAZHTSY "DVUZUBKA" RIGHT, 1501 m above sea level (Kamchatka Krai, Elizovsky District, Ganal Range) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY (rocky, combined in winter) KHABAROVSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION September 1, 2022

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor №606
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Kirilin Ilya Fedorovich, no rank Potapenko Yuri Alexandrovich, no rank Rudchenko Alena Igorevna, no rank Rychkova Elena Vladimirovna, no rank Simshag Tatyana Vladimirovna, no rank