On the right side of the southeast wall, 5A (option 4B)

The route passes on the left side of a wide internal corner, which cuts vertically through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering of the ridge between the peaks of Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and is a conditional boundary between them. The last section of the route, which passes through a sheer wall with two small ledges, is the most difficult. It can be replaced by an ascent along the несложной upper part of the wide internal corner. In this case, the complexity of the route is reduced by half a category (option). From the road, near the alpine camps, 200 m up along the trail, and then 50 m along simple rocks to a grotto located at the base of the internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no tech). On the section R1–R2 — from the grotto up, first on the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. Further (section R2–R3), traverse along the shelf 20 m to the left (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+; 20 m, 70°, II). On the section R3–R5 — up along a steep, smooth wall with a small number of cracks (R3–R5: 30 m, 75°, V+; 50 m, 75°, V). On the section R5–R6 — up and to the right along rocks of medium complexity (R5–R6: 40 m, 70°, III). On the section R6–R7 — up and to the left 20 m along simple rocks to the base of a large vertical internal corner (R6–R7: 20 m, 60°, I). On the last section of the route — up along the left sheer 30-meter wall of the internal corner with two small ledges. The ledges are passed head-on (R7–peak: 30 m, 80°, V+).

Foros Kant — 2B "Bolshoy Fontan"

Massif: Chelebi (657 m); Difficulty: 5A, VI, A2 Author: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 255 m Time to complete: 6–7 hours The route is located in the right part of the Foros Kant wall. The start is to the right of the "Rhombs" route. The approach is the same as for "Rhombs", but instead of turning left at the end, move up towards a large juniper growing under the wall. The start of the route is about 10 meters to the left. The general direction of movement is towards the left edge of the group of trees in the lower part of the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Initially, climb the slab, then continue on aid, there is a bolt, exit into a crack, ascend the crack to a mulda with trees; the belay station is on the upper left tree. (5 m V; 10 m A2; 15 m V; 15 m IV) R1–R2 45 m. From the tree, move up and left for 5 m, then ascend through cracks, slightly left; the terrain is rich, you can climb for about 10 m until reaching an overhang. Under the overhang, there is a bolt. From the bolt, climb up the slab using skyhooks (one relief, followed by two holey ones) to a tree. From the tree, move up and right through a small corner to reach a ledge. Climbing is tense at first, becoming easier after about 10 m. The belay station is on a tree. (15 m V; 5 m A2; 10 m V; 10 m III) R2–R3 40 m. From the ledge, ascend through an internal corner, initially by free climbing, and then on aid in the upper part.

Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *

This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lav­ri­nen­ko. The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall. From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized). On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV). On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).

Via the Southeast Wall Left of the "Diamond" (Left Diamond), 5B (route by A. Volkodav, 1973)

The route passes through the right part of the southeast wall. From the road near the mountaineering campsites, move upwards and leftwards, initially along the trail and then across the scree (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — climb up through moderately steep slabs to a ledge with a large forked tree stump (R1–R2: 35 m, 70°, — IV). On the R2–R3 section — traverse left along the ledge to the base of an internal corner (with a piton under the corner) and then up the corner with a tree growing in the middle. Despite the short length of this section, it's convenient to set up a belay point at the top of the corner (there's a piton), as the direction of ascent changes and it will be challenging to pass the rope further (R2–R3: 20 m, 70°, IV). On the R3–R4 section — traverse left for 12 m and then climb up a slab from a piton towards a deciduous tree. From the tree, ascend through a weakly defined internal corner with a crack. After 20 m, the crack ends at a plug/cornice. Above the plug, there's a convenient belay point on pitons. Characteristics of the R3–R4 section:

• 12 m, 60°, III
• 10 m, 80°, V
• 20 m, 85°, VI On the R4–R5 section — climb up through a crack and slab to a ledge under an overhanging wall.

Through the center of the southeastern wall via the cornice Semerka (Semerka), 5a (route by P. Denisenko, 1976), variant by V. Shushlyapin "Semerka on the left", 5B *)

The route goes through the center of the southeastern wall via a cornice, which resembles a seven in its shape. A landmark for its beginning can be a large juniper bush growing in the lower part of the wall. From the road near the alpinist parking under Forosskiy Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 30 m to a wild strawberry tree (Bestydnitsa) (R1–R2: 30 m, 80°, IV). On the section R2­–R3 — first traverse 10 m left to a crevice, and then up along a vaguely expressed internal corner. Having overcome a short overhanging wall, move towards the juniper bush (R2­–R3: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R3­–R4 — first left and up 25 m along a chip to a dry tree on a ledge. Above the ledge is an overhanging wall. It is passed first on the left through a crevice, and then — along the internal corner (R3­–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). On the section R4–R5 — first up and right along the internal corner to a green bush located to the left of the lower part of the Semerka cornice. Then move to the upper corner of the cornice (R4–R5: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R5–R6 — first pass the cornice straight up. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge to a vertical internal corner. Up along the corner to a horizontal ledge, and then traverse 10 m left (R5–R6: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R6–R7 — up along smooth inclined slabs to a ledge (R6–R7: 40 m, 75°, IV).

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2020

ASCENT REPORT FOR FOROSKII KANT SUMMIT via the inner corner of the Southeast wall “Ryżyi ugol” (A. Stavnitser, 1971), 5A cat. dif., rock.

Team of the Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation. Team leader — Sokolov Alexander Alexandrovich. Team coach — Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich. Sochi

Ascent Details

1. Crimea
2. Foroskii Kant peak, 660 m.
3. Route: via the inner corner of the Southeast wall (A. Stavnitser, 1971)

Along the reddish inner corner of the south-eastern wall (Red corner), 5a *)

In the upper part, the route passes through a mossy inner corner, nicknamed "Red corner" by the first ascenders, located to the right of the western counterfort. That's why it got the corresponding name. From the road near the alpinist parking under the Forosky Kant, proceed up and left, first along the trail, and then across the talus to the start of the cleft under the Red corner (R0: 150 m, 20–30, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the cleft, starting 3 m to the left of the memorial plaque. There are piton hooks, including old ones. The thread of the route is very logical. The belay station is on a small shelf. (R1–R2: 45 m, 80°, V+).

Author: Aleksandra Lavrinenko, Odessa

Changes on Forosskiy Kant

On Per'ya route 5A (left variant):

1st rope - there were 8 old pitons, half of them had torn off ears. 3 new bolts were driven in the right places. A station was made on 2 × bolts, a ledge near a tree. 2nd rope - a station was drilled on a ledge near a tree. 3rd rope - a piton was replaced at the station, another one was added. 4th rope - pitons were replaced, 3 were driven instead of 4. A station was drilled near a small pine (previously it was on a pine). Further the route goes out to the kant, there are stations.

On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

• in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
• in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,

Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

• R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,