SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2020

ASCENT REPORT FOR FOROSKII KANT SUMMIT via the inner corner of the Southeast wall “Ryżyi ugol” (A. Stavnitser, 1971), 5A cat. dif., rock.

Team of the Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation. Team leader — Sokolov Alexander Alexandrovich. Team coach — Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich.

Sochi

Ascent Details

Crimea
Foroskii Kant peak, 660 m.
Route: via the inner corner of the Southeast wall (A. Stavnitser, 1971)
Cat. dif.: 5A.
Route type: rock climbing
Route elevation gain: 600 m.

Route length: 430 m. Length of rock climbing sections — 320 m. Average steepness of the entire route — 70°. * main part of the route — 80°.

Pitons used on the route:

Anchor pitons — 21 pcs., incl. artificial anchors — 0 pcs. Bolt pitons — 15 pcs., incl. artificial anchors — 0 pcs. Pitons left on the route: 0 pcs. Friends — 28 pcs. Nuts — 14 pcs. Artificial anchors used: 0 pcs.
Team's climbing hours: 4 hours, including:
- 19.10. — departure at 09:30;
- 19.10. — reached the summit at 13:30.
Climbing team members:

Leader: Sokolov Alexander Alexandrovich, 1st sports category. Participants:
- Slaev Ilnur Asimovich, 1st sports category.
- Kuchkin Ivan Sergeevich, CMS.
Coach: Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich, CMS, 2nd category instructor.
Tactical ascent plan:

Departure at 09:30 on October 19, 2020. Summit arrival at 13:30 on October 19, 2020.

General photo of the summit with nearby routes Technical photo of the route Technical photo of the route by sections

Brief description of the route by sections

R0–R1 (150 m, 20–30°, easy)

From the road near the alpine camps under Foroskii Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the scree to the beginning of the gap under the “Ryżyi ugol”.

R1–R2 (45 m, 80°, V+)

Up the gap, starting 3 m to the left of the memorial plaque. Some old bolt pitons can be found. The route is logical. Station on a small ledge.

R2–R3 (20 m, 90°, VI; 20 m, 60°, III)

Up through a small overhang with a smooth, worn-out gap, exit onto slabs with rocks and earth, and from there to the base of the right inner corner (to the right of a large oak tree).

R3–R4 (40 m, 80°, V+)

First, into the inner corner through a small overhang, then up the corner (some bolt pitons for protection) to a large tree.

R4–R5 (20 m, 75°, –V; 25 m, 80°, V+)

Straight up from the tree along the inner corner (be careful — the gap in the corner may be filled with earth and grass!) to the point where a crack branches off to the right. It's better to ascend via this crack. Where the crack branches off, a bolt piton trail leads to the “Semерка” route; continue up the slab to a large ledge.

R5–R6 (30 m, 75°, IV)

Up the right inner corner to a ledge under an overhanging wall.

R6–R7 (40 m, 80°, V+)

The wall is climbed first by traversing left, then up the gap, bypassing the overhang on the left. Higher up, via small flakes and corners, ascend under the sheer wall.

R7–R8 (40 m, 80°, V)

First, up an 8-meter inner corner under a small cornice. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge. Then, moving up and left, station on a tree. Further ascent to the summit plateau via a trail.