Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty).

On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

  • R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+

On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III).

On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°, V+).

On the R5–R6 section — from "Lapa", first 5 m upwards along a steep wall, and then there are two options.

  • A relatively new one — upwards to a bolted route and along it 20 m upwards along a sheer plate.
  • An old one — to the right to an old bolted route with rusty and partially broken hangers. However, it's still possible to climb, using a rope sling around the broken bolts for protection. Along it, 20 m leftwards and upwards (R5–R6: 35 m, 85°, V+).

On the final section — first upwards, and then traverse rightwards under the overhanging wall to a large pine tree. From it, leftwards and upwards, then straight up along rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a large ledge under a sheer wall. Overcoming a 5-meter steep wall head-on, move leftwards and upwards and along an internal corner to reach the summit plateau (R6 — summit: 130 m, 60–70, III–IV).

There is a more challenging variant for the R3–R5 section, "Lapa" on the right. On the R3–R4' section — 10 m upwards to the right to a cleft that bounds "Lapa" on the right. Then 20 m along the cleft, challenging climbing. A belay station is at the base of a chimney (R3–R4': 10 m, 65°, VI; 20 m, 80°, VI).

On the R4'–R5 section — 30 m upwards along a chimney. Climbing is challenging (R4'–R5: 30 m, 85°, VI). Then continue along the main route.

The length of the main part of the route is about 320 m. Time to complete the route is 4–5 hours. *) The challenging part of the route is equipped with stationary protection.

Sources

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