Via the Southeast Wall Left of the "Diamond" (Left Diamond), 5B (route by A. Volkodav, 1973)
The route passes through the right part of the southeast wall. From the road near the mountaineering campsites, move upwards and leftwards, initially along the trail and then across the scree (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, no category).
On the R1–R2 section — climb up through moderately steep slabs to a ledge with a large forked tree stump (R1–R2: 35 m, 70°, — IV).
On the R2–R3 section — traverse left along the ledge to the base of an internal corner (with a piton under the corner) and then up the corner with a tree growing in the middle. Despite the short length of this section, it's convenient to set up a belay point at the top of the corner (there's a piton), as the direction of ascent changes and it will be challenging to pass the rope further (R2–R3: 20 m, 70°, IV).
On the R3–R4 section — traverse left for 12 m and then climb up a slab from a piton towards a deciduous tree. From the tree, ascend through a weakly defined internal corner with a crack. After 20 m, the crack ends at a plug/cornice. Above the plug, there's a convenient belay point on pitons.
Characteristics of the R3–R4 section:
- 12 m, 60°, III
- 10 m, 80°, V
- 20 m, 85°, VI
On the R4–R5 section — climb up through a crack and slab to a ledge under an overhanging wall.
Characteristics of the R4–R5 section:
- 45 m, 75°, IV+
On the R5–R6 section — climb straight up through a slight overhang and then slightly rightwards through a series of cracks, some filled with earth and grass. At the end of the section, move left through a broken-off area to a ledge (R5–R6: 25 m, 75°, IV+).
On the R6–R7 section — move rightwards, then through a "bulge" to the base of a "soapy" internal corner. The route follows the right wall of the internal corner, continually moving rightwards, and leads under an overhanging crack (orient by the existing pitons) (R6–R7: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the R7–R8 section — complex climbing through a crack (possibly using artificial aids, there are pitons) 15 m upwards, then slightly leftwards along a split and then up the walls to a ledge under a black cornice (R7–R8: 20 m, 95°, VI, A0; 20 m, 80°, V+). On the R8–R9 section — climb under the cornice and, passing it on the right side, reach a black wall — an internal corner, and ascend it to a grotto 15 m below the yayla (R8–R9: 30 m, 85°, VI).
On the final section — exit through the right edge of the grotto onto fragmented walls and ascend them to the summit plateau (R9–summit: 20 m, 85°, VI).
The length of the main part of the route is about 300 m. The time required to complete the route is 3–5 hours. The new version of the route description was compiled by V. Pestrikov.
Vladimir was one of the strongest mountaineers from Dnipropetrovsk region in recent years. He died in the summer of 2003 during an ascent of Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I, 8068 m) as part of the Ukrainian national team, when he was caught in an ice avalanche.