On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

  • in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
  • in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance.

(R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope).

On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+).

On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°, IV+).img-0.jpeg

On the section R4–R5 — first 12 m up the chimney to the top of the second Feather, then left and up to the top of a small delicate spall, which crowns the chain of spalls. From here, a difficult transition leads to the wall. Along a slab 10 m left and up to a small tree (R4–R5: 30 m, 80°, V+).

On the section R5–R6 — first 15 m up an internal corner, and then up and left along a steep wall to a branching pine (R5–R6: 30 m, 85°, V+).

On the section R6–R7 — up and left onto the western counterfort and along it to a tree (R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, III).

On the section R7–R9 — up the western counterfort to a grotto (R7–R8: 40 m, 70°, III; R8–R9: 20 m, 70–60°, III–II).

On the final section of the route — overcoming a 5-meter steep wall head-on, move left and up and along an internal corner to reach the summit plateau (R9 — summit: 20 m, 80°, IV).

The length of the main part of the route is 280 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. *) The challenging part of the route is equipped with stationary belay points.

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Sources

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