Along the reddish inner corner of the south-eastern wall (Red corner), 5a *)
In the upper part, the route passes through a mossy inner corner, nicknamed "Red corner" by the first ascenders, located to the right of the western counterfort. That's why it got the corresponding name.
From the road near the alpinist parking under the Forosky Kant, proceed up and left, first along the trail, and then across the talus to the start of the cleft under the Red corner (R0: 150 m, 20–30, no category).
On the R1–R2 section — up the cleft, starting 3 m to the left of the memorial plaque. There are piton hooks, including old ones. The thread of the route is very logical. The belay station is on a small shelf. (R1–R2: 45 m, 80°, V+).
On the R2–R3 section — up through a small overhang with a smooth, slick cleft, exit onto slabs with stones and earth and along them to the base of the right inner corner (to the right of the large oak tree). (R2–R3: 20 m, 90°, VI; 20 m, 60°, III).
On the R3–R4 section — first into the inner corner through a small overhang, then up the corner (there are pitons for belay) to a large tree. (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+).
On the R4–R5 section — straight up from the tree through the inner corner (attention: the cleft in the corner may be filled with earth and grass!) to the place where a crack departs to the right. It's better to ascend via this crack. Where the crack gives way to a piton path leading to the "Semerka" route, continue up the slab to a large ledge. (R4–R5: 20 m, 75°, −V; 25 m, 80°, V+).
On the R5–R6 section — up the right inner corner to a ledge under an overhanging wall. It is passed (R6–R7 section) first by traversing left, and then up the cleft, avoiding the overhang on the left. Further up, via small chimneys and corners, ascend under the sheer wall (R5–R6: 30 m, 75°, IV; R6–R7: 40 m, 80°, V⁺).
On the R7–R8 section — first 5 m up, and then left and up under the eaves. It is passed on the left via the cleft (R7–R8: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the final section:
- first, up the 8-meter inner corner under a small eave;
- then traverse right 8 m along the ledge;
- Then, moving up and left, exit onto the summit plateau (R8 — summit: 30 m, 80°, V).
Alternative: Earlier, the first two ropes were climbed differently. On the R1–R2' section — right and up along an oblique ledge to a small cave. Shortly before reaching it, ascend (R2'–R3 section) 25 m up the sheer wall. Then left and up to a large juniper bush (R1–R2': 60 m, 60°, II; R2'–R3: 40 m, 85°, V+).
The length of the main part of the route is about 320 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. *) The challenging part of the route is equipped with stationary belay points.