1.2.18

Description of the First Ascent of the Left Buttress of the Eastern Peak of Karagem-bash (August 7-11, 1965)

The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya Mountains of the Altai. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, bounds one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashey Glacier (10 km long, 15 km² in area) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash, in the same ridge, stands the massif of the Maashey peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammy peak, from where it turns north to the Maashey Pass. To the south from the peak descend numerous extensive glaciers, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (towards the Maashey Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak is cut off by a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. From the ice cap of the peak to the north hang seracs, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The falls of these seracs occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The Left Buttress has a northern aspect and is lit by the sun in its lower part approximately from 10:00. To the right of the buttress pass routes of 5B category of difficulty along the northern walls:

• the eastern peak of Karagem-bash
• the western peak of Karagem-bash. The reconnaissance of the route and its study were conducted by the group during a separate trip to the upper reaches of the Maashey gorge. The path taken fully coincided with the planned one. The group considered that the route should be 5B category of difficulty, but it turned out to be more difficult due to the upper part, which was poorly visible from below.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF THE EASTERN SUMMIT OF Karagem-bash (July 18-20, 1962) 5B cat. diff. The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya mountain range of the Altai Mountains. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, limits one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashai Glacier (length 10 km, area 15 km²) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash in the same ridge stands the massif of the Maashai peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of all the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammas peak, from where it turns north to the Maashai pass. Numerous extensive glaciers descend from the peak to the south, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (to the Maashai Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak breaks off with a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. Icefalls hang from the icy cap of the peak to the north, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The collapses of these icefalls occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The wall has a northern exposure and is illuminated by the sun for only a few hours a day (during the ascent - from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.). The wall leading to the western peak was climbed in 1956 by a group led by V.S. Andreev. The route was classified as 5B cat. diff. The object of this ascent was the wall leading to the eastern peak of Karagem-bash and separated in the upper part from the route of V.S. Andreev's group by a cap of icefalls hanging from the peak. The entire Karagem-bash wall is clearly visible from the Maashai valley, which this peak closes.

Ка­па­рен (Б) 55°C. Géret

Passport

1. Class of technical ascents.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karagem gorge.
3. Karagem peak (3) via the northern wall.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 1250 m, length — 1450 m, average steepness — 54°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — , ice — 8, chocks — 136.
7. Climbing hours: 29 hours, 2 days.
8. Overnight stay on a platform made on the ridge.
9. Leader: Sergeev Viktor Platonovich — Master of Sports, 658218, Altai Krai, Rubtsovsk, 64-14 Svetlova St.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE. №1

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the Western couloir from Pravyy Aktru glacier.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. The route's height difference is 800 m, the route length is 2500 m, the average steepness of the main part is 45°, and the overall route is 25°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice screws — 2.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. Leader Khilko V. CMS Team members:

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.
4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).
5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stays required.
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category.

1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.

Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Peak Karatash 3535 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 4A, variant.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 2500 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and placement 50, ice 2.
7. Team's travel time 18 hours, 2 days.
8. One overnight stay: cold, lying down. Team Leader: Afanasiev A.E. MS