Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the N wall, 4B cat. diff., Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: N.V. Turbin Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

1. Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. No. 10.3 (according to KGVB 2011)
2. Gran Paradiso peak 4061 m via N wall (first ascent by C. Bertolone, F. Cappa, G. Giorda, 1958)
3. Proposed category: 4B cat. diff.
4. Route type: snow-ice

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the NW ridge, 3B cat. difficulty, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta), Gran Paradiso National Park. Team leader: E. V. Korol Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2011)
2. Gran Paradiso peak (Gran Paradiso) 4061 m via the Northwest ridge
3. Proposed category: 3A(B) cat. difficulty
4. Route type: combined

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge, category 3B. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior Coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the mountain peak route classifier
2. Gran Paradiso peak (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge
3. Category 3B, ice and snow terrain
4. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 300 m, total route: 400 m Route length: 870 m.

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast Ridge, 3A category of complexity, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast ridge.
3. First ascent: F.T. Wettered with mountain guides Laurent Proment and Eliseo Jeantet, July 20, 1876.
4. Category: 3A, route type — combined.
5. Height difference: 400 m.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the NW slope, category 1B difficulty. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Team leader: A. K. Popov Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Passport

1. Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. № 10.3 (according to KGVМ 2011)
2. Mt. Gran Paradiso 4061 m via NW slope (first ascent – M. Payot, J. Tairraz, 1860)
3. Proposed category – 1B difficulty

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |

Passport

1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998.

CERTIFICATE

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part.
4. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification).
5. Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.
6. Driven pitons:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif
3. Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face
4. Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route
5. Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,

Passport

1. Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
2. Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
3. Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
4. Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
5. Length — 1420 m
6. Length of wall section — 1420 m
7. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
8. Height difference — 1180 m