Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge, category 3B. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park

Leader: Toporkov A.V.

Senior Coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the mountain peak route classifier
Gran Paradiso peak (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge
Category 3B, ice and snow terrain
Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 300 m, total route: 400 m Route length: 870 m. Length of sections: V category — m, VI category — m.

Average slope:
- main part of the route (up to the Northwest Ridge) — 40°
- total route — 20°
Number of pitons used on the route: 35
Team's total climbing time from Chabod Hut: 10 h 30 min, not including descent; from the start of the route: 7 h 30 min.
Leader: Toporkov Alexander (Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor 3rd category)

Participants:
- Antipina Natalia (3rd sports category)
- Tretyakova Vera (3rd sports category)
- Ovcharenko Irina (3rd sports category)
- Afanasyeva Lena (3rd sports category) Coach: Korochkov Alexey Semyonovich
Departure from the bivouac (Chabod Hut): July 31, 2018, at 3:00 AM

Start of the route (bergschrund): 6:30 AM. Reaching the Northwest Ridge: 11:30 AM. Summit: 1:30 PM. Descent from the summit: via category 1B route to Chabod Hut
Alpine event: Training and Climbing Camp (UTS and KS) KAiS MEI Alps 2018
Responsible for the report: Toporkov A.V., email: toporchillo@gmail.com

General Summit Photo

Gran Paradiso from Piccolo Paradiso Pass and Northeast Ridge
Gran Paradiso via North Face, 4B (S. Bertolone, F. Cappa, G. Giorda, 1958)
Gran Paradiso via North Face and Northwest Ridge (team's route)
Gran Paradiso via North Face and Northwest Ridge (F. Locatelli+6, 1974)
Gran Paradiso via Northwest Ridge, 3B
Gran Paradiso via Northwest Ridge

The photograph was taken from Chabod Hut

Technical Photograph of the Route

The photograph was taken from Chabod Hut. The summit itself is not visible. The North Ridge lies between the visible highest point and the summit.

Section	Length	Slope	Terrain Characteristics	Category	Number of Protection Points
R0–R1	500 m	40	snow and ice	3	32 ice screws
R1–R2	20 m	15	rocks	1	-
R2–R3	250 m	25	snowy ridge	1–2	-
R3–R4	100 m	25	snowy ridge	1	-
R5–R6	100 m	30	rocky ridge	1–3	2 slings

Route Profile Photo

Brief Description of the Route by Sections

Approach: From Chabod Hut, follow the trail upwards for 100 m, then traverse a steep slope, reach a stream, cross it via a bridge, and continue on the trail towards the moraine ridge. Ascend the moraine ridge to the glacier (1.5 hours).

On the glacier, move in teams towards the Gran Paradiso wall, in the direction of the ice and snow slope between two rocky buttresses. The glacier is closed, with crevasses. Approach the bergschrund and cross it via a snow bridge (3.5–4 hours). (Photo 1)

R0–R1: Ice slope 600 m between two rocky buttresses. Slope 40°, 32 ice screws used. Reach the Northwest Ridge: 5 hours (Photo 2)

R1–R2: Simple rocky ridge: 20 m, 15°. (Photo 3)

R2–R3: Snowy ridge: 150 m, 20°. The ridge ends with a snow cornice, which should be bypassed on the right; 1 ice screw used.

R3–R4: Snowy ridge: 100 m

R5–R6: Rocky ridge with a summit gendarme. Ascend the summit gendarme via ledges from the south — it is gentler there, with existing fixed protection points. At the summit, there is a statue of the Madonna (Photo 4).

Descent from the summit via a category 1B route to Chabod Hut — 3.5 hours.

Note: On July 31, the sun illuminates the Northwest Ridge at 10:00 AM. Rockfall is possible from the rocky buttresses between which the route passes.

On the day of our ascent, the route was in near-ideal condition: the bergschrund was crossed via a snow bridge, and the lower part of the route was an ice slope covered with a thin layer of snow. This allowed for easy movement on snow and reliable protection on the ice beneath the snow.

In terms of technical difficulty, the route surpasses routes such as:

Izyiskatel Peak via Northwest Face, 3B
Comparable to the route on Djailyk via the South slope of the 3rd ridge, 4A
Less difficult than the route to Korona 1 peak via the ice wall, 3rd category, 4A