Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.

Shaan-Kaya — 8. Hyperborea route (Yarechevsky Marunich)

In the mountains — climbing routes of Crimea The route passes through the right part of the South wall of Shaan-Kaya, in the upper part it goes left, to the center. A landmark can be a huge overhanging inner corner, visible even from the lower road. If you draw a line from the base of the corner, perpendicular to the foot, it will come to the start of the route. The route was started in the 1980s by Chaplyngsky and Samoded, but, having passed 150 m, they stopped (from this point it is possible to swing to the Grishchenko route). The route was completed by Vitaly Yarechevsky (Odessa) and Vladimir Marunich (Nikolaev). In 2000, they made a reconnaissance, passing the already passed section of the wall and strengthening the stations, and in November 2001 they completed the route, passing a 100-meter overhanging section, which, in my opinion, is the key one. The route was climbed with processing of the lower part and 2 overnight stays on the wall on a platform. The length of the route is 300 meters, of which overhanging sections are more than 200 meters, sometimes more than 100°. The complexity of climbing is VI+, ITO A3 (or more?). Some sections of ITO-climbing were passed by Vitaly Yarechevsky in free climbing, his assessment is F 6c–7a. The second ascent was made by Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko (Odessa), Alexander Mak­si­me­nya (Minsk) in February 2002. On a sunny February day, Sasha Maksimenya and I approached Shaan-Kaya. My time in Crimea was coming to an end, and I wanted to climb something unusual. There are two such routes on Shaan-Kaya:

• Shel­kha­kov — Po­po­v, 2001
• Hyperborea

Shaan-Kaya. "Grafika" Route

Published by Alpinist on May 21, 2018

Today, there is very little space left in the Crimean mountains for interesting and challenging lines. This is especially true for iconic peaks like Shaan-Kaya. Pioneering a new route in such a place is a very responsible task. By taking away the last untouched sections of the wall from future generations, it is essential to minimize our impact on the terrain. More than a year ago, while admiring the gray monolith between "Grishchenko Pravyy" and "Arsenal" on the right side of Shaan-Kaya, I noticed a thin, discontinuous crack crossing the wall diagonally. "It would be great to climb this smooth slab without using a drill." The idea seemed worthy but unrealistic. Still, I took a series of photos of the wall to study at home. Upon enlargement, the relief looked very poor. The crack was repeatedly interrupted, but it was still there. I decided to give it a try, but if I got stuck with extensive drilling, I would retreat. Despite being tired after the May championship, I was eager to start working on the route. The next day after the award ceremony, armed with an excessive amount of anchors, axes, skyhooks, and copperheads, we managed to tear ourselves away from the ground. On the first day, the weather allowed us to climb two pitches. On the second day, around 5:00 PM, we finished the route, fully realizing our idea. Throughout its length, the line is tied to the natural relief. There are no intermediate bolts. No holes were drilled for skyhooks either. The route has the following fixed equipment:

• 2 bolts on the second belay
• a pendulum bolt with a carabiner at the end of the third pitch The remaining belays are on natural protection.

Crimea. Kush-Kaya. First Ascent 2A "Krasny Ugol"

Alpinism. Written by Volikov, April 3, 2014, 0:18 We arrived in January in Crimea at the Kush-Kaya mountain massif with mountaineering objectives:

• to do some climbing;
• to gain guiding experience;
• to hone our skills with "iron". Actually, we came to celebrate the New Year, drink wine, and take a dip in the winter sea. Nothing out of the ordinary was expected. But... everything is available on Kush-Kaya, except for a 2A route. So, we started looking for another "double", and this is what came out of it.

Ascent Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV - 8.2.

Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)

The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here. R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree. R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing. Hazards:

• Rocks hit the entire lower part.
• There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets. R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top. R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Ay-Petri Eastern via the Eastern Part of the Wall on the Route "Prazdnik Neposlushaniya" 6A Category of Complexity by the Team from Mukhalatka Settlement from 14:00 on March 14, 2020, to 17:00 on March 15, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full Names, Sports Ranks of Participants	Vlasenko Alexey Sergeevich – no rank, Umnov Anton Sergeevich – no rank, Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich – Candidate for Master of Sports

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Kush-Kaya via the "Zigzag" route on the southwestern wall 2A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY by the team of the Crimean Republican Public Organization "Alpine Club 'Kategoriya Trudnosti'" on October 26, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№ п.п.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Sitnik Mikhail Aleksandrovich MSMSK
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Boyko Lyubov Alekseevna MS
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Sitnik Mikhail Aleksandrovich
1.4	Organization	Alpkлуб «Kategoriya Trudnosti»
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Report on the First Ascent to Sokol Peak via the "Levee Grebnevoy Dvoiki" Route 3A/3B Category by the UTS FANO "Krym-23" Team for the Period from 01.05.2023 to 08.05.2023

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Patutinskiy Alexander - 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Gogolev Stepan - 3rd sports rank, Roitmay Sofya - 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Bogdanov Alexey Vladimirovich
1.4	Organization	Federation of Alpinism of Nizhny Novgorod Region
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Crimea

REPORT

on the first ascent of the route

to the summit

Maly Kilse-Burun 600 m

Republic of Crimea, Foros settlement area

route "K3"

along the western edge proposed 3A category of difficulty (rock climbing) May 16, 2023

Participants:

Report

on the first ascent of the route

To the top of Mshatka-Kaya 650 m

Republic of Crimea, Foros area

"Halapeno" Route

on the southern wall (between Filatova's Crack and Ear routes) proposed category 4B (rock climbing) May 25, 2023

Participants:

Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports; Leonkin Sergey Sergeevich, Candidate Master of Sports