Shaan-Kaya. "Grafika" Route

Published by Alpinist on May 21, 2018

Today, there is very little space left in the Crimean mountains for interesting and challenging lines. This is especially true for iconic peaks like Shaan-Kaya. Pioneering a new route in such a place is a very responsible task. By taking away the last untouched sections of the wall from future generations, it is essential to minimize our impact on the terrain.

More than a year ago, while admiring the gray monolith between "Grishchenko Pravyy" and "Arsenal" on the right side of Shaan-Kaya, I noticed a thin, discontinuous crack crossing the wall diagonally. "It would be great to climb this smooth slab without using a drill." The idea seemed worthy but unrealistic. Still, I took a series of photos of the wall to study at home.

Upon enlargement, the relief looked very poor. The crack was repeatedly interrupted, but it was still there. I decided to give it a try, but if I got stuck with extensive drilling, I would retreat. Despite being tired after the May championship, I was eager to start working on the route. The next day after the award ceremony, armed with an excessive amount of anchors, axes, skyhooks, and copperheads, we managed to tear ourselves away from the ground.

On the first day, the weather allowed us to climb two pitches. On the second day, around 5:00 PM, we finished the route, fully realizing our idea. Throughout its length, the line is tied to the natural relief. There are no intermediate bolts. No holes were drilled for skyhooks either.

The route has the following fixed equipment:

2 bolts on the second belay
a pendulum bolt with a carabiner at the end of the third pitch

The remaining belays are on natural protection.

Shaan-Kaya (Crimea)

Galitskogo

The thread of the "Grafika" route (photo from A. Zhilin's archive)

Route Description by Sections:

The route starts from the internal corner between the bushes, initially marked with the number "12".Start of the route (internal corner) R0–R1, 32 m. Follow the ten-meter internal corner and then the developed relief to the right and upwards to a comfortable ledge. Belay on natural protection. 15 m VI A1; 17 m

R1–R2, 32 m. From the belay, move left and upwards along the discontinuous diagonal crack. Uniform and reliable ITO around A3. The belay is hanging, equipped with two KONG 10/45 mm bolts.

32 m А3

Start of the second pitch

Second pitch R2–R3, 40 m. Continue moving along the diagonal crack. Two meters above the belay, the key section begins, using:

small axes
relief skyhooks

The relief becomes simpler further on. After 32 m, the crack abruptly ends; here, a pendulum (a KONG 10/45 mm bolt with a carabiner is left) moves left onto an oblique slab at the base of the discontinuous crack. Belay on natural protection.

10 m A3+; 10 m A3; 12 m VI A2; +pendulum

Section R2–R3

Belay after the pendulum R3–R4, 55 m.

From the belay:

move 10 m upwards along the discontinuous crack,
then 15 m of climbing along the corner,
followed by a traverse along the ledge to the left and upwards through internal corners onto sloping rocks,
here, the route joins "Grishchenko Pravyy".

15 m of easy climbing to a bolted belay.

10 m A3;
30 m V A1;
15 m II R4–R5

Move left and upwards along inclined gray slabs, then right and upwards through broken relief to reach sloping rocks. Follow them to a ledge with a large pine tree.