Route №12 “Zub”

(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.

Shaan-Kaya — 9

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odesa Shaan-Kaya is located near Alupka. It is not part of the South Ridge, but is protruded towards the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall's height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been climbed), all are of 6th category of difficulty. Alexander Lav­rin­enko To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pitomnik" stop
• From there, go up the road
• Pass through the vineyards
• Get on a dirt road, which leads practically under the wall Water is available at a spring within 15 minutes walk from the wall.

Shaan-Kaya — 11

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Alexander Lavrinenko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category. To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop

Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B. R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors. R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe. R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).

Shaan-Kaya — 13

Author: Alexander Maximenia, Minsk Crimea. Shaan-Kaya. Solo Shaan-Kaya is located not far from Alupka. The mountain rises 250–300 m in the middle of a pine forest. The landscape is unreal and mesmerizing. Under the wall, there are piles of huge boulders. Among this chaos, there's a cozy grotto where I settled and became a caveman for this week. March 12. Arrived in Crimea. By evening, I reached the mountain and settled in the grotto near the wall, which was not visible in the fog. March 13. The weather improved. The sun is shining. I'm testing my gear and nerves on the old bolted route in the center of the wall. The route was drilled about forty years ago by Yalta residents when attempting to pass the wall, and it's well-preserved for its age. After 70 m, it ends, and I rappel down. March 14. Climbed to the second belay on Hyperborea. Checking every move, I creep up the wall — not just moving, but literally creeping. There's no one around, and every wrong decision can have unpredictable consequences. March 15. Ascended via the fixed rope and climbed further

Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left), 6A

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left) — climbed by Viktor Grishchenko's team (Kiev). Grishchenko route (left), 6A, started along the old, unfinished bolted track, continued on natural relief — straight up, along corners. SH­AAN-KA­YA. Routes lines A simpler variation:

• Up left, along the system of inner corners, to the top of a spall (intersection with «Krym 87»)
• Further up, to a slanting crack

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

Shaan-Kaya — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odes­sa Alexander Lav­rin­enko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is pushed forward to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. 6 routes are laid along the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes were climbed), all are 6th category of difficulty. To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pit­om­nik" stop
• From it, go up the road